Sander
Junior Member
Posts: 61 
|
Post by Sander on Feb 5, 2015 3:50:00 GMT -7
Statistics seems a reasonable approach here  I'll contribute! I'm 6 foot tall and weigh about 172 pounds. Ape index is spot on 0… I've just campussed 1-4-7 on 25 mm rungs (moon spacing) and a board inclination of 16 degrees. I've bouldered several V8/V9 boulders (up to FB 7B+) last year, but this was my first power phase and the first time I've done campus training. It took 12 campus sessions in total to get to 1-4-7. |
|
|
|
Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 5, 2015 15:13:47 GMT -7
i think the reach dependency is probably true at the ultra extreme end of campusing ability, but for most of the population i don't think it is really the limiting factor at their current campusing level. having watched a lot of folks campusing, both in person and in video, it seems like folks that are small and powerfully built are the best at it. the only person i have ever seen that is pretty good at it and that i would consider tall is eric decaria. even then, i don't think he is really that tall. maybe 6 foot? as with pretty much anything in climbing, i think there will be trade-offs. for example, i would think that a taller person will be more likely to have a greater difference in finger length than a shorter person, which would be a pretty significant disadvantage. also, the usual weight versus gun size, etc. shorter people are probably more coordinated also, at least that's what i tell my wife when i accidentally break something
I'm surely guilty of some "grass is greener" thinking. There are certainly trade-offs between arm length and finger size, but there's probably a sweet spot in-between really tall and really small. For me, latching is not much of an issue, the issue is reaching between the rungs. If I can consistently do the reach, I can eventually latch the rung. It would seem the ideally-shaped human would have an equal amount of trouble reaching between rungs and latching rungs. For example, if you were in that sweet spot you would be reaching the top surface of the rung but not latching it as often as your were not reaching it. For me, if I reach the top of the rung I usually latch it.
|
|
|
|
Post by jessebruni on Feb 5, 2015 15:32:13 GMT -7
I would be remiss if I didn't point out Jan Hojer's 1-9. That seems to be pretty definitive that when it comes to campusing reach is better.
|
|
|
|
Post by slimshaky on Feb 6, 2015 9:24:31 GMT -7
ha ha, i would say that in his case, having it ALL is best.
|
|
|
|
Post by jonfrisby on Feb 7, 2015 11:51:38 GMT -7
I would be remiss if I didn't point out Jan Hojer's 1-9. That seems to be pretty definitive that when it comes to campusing reach is better. I was thinking the same, but then again, Ben Moon is only 5'11 |
|
|
|
Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 7, 2015 12:03:56 GMT -7
I wouldn't say "only". That's relatively tall for an elite climber isn't it?. And more imporantly, that's 4" taller than me! |
|
|
|
Post by jonfrisby on Feb 8, 2015 14:01:40 GMT -7
Haha I guess that's fair. I'm 5'11 as well and am the shortest guy in my family over the age of 12 so maybe my scale is all wrong
|
|
|
|
Post by Alex K. on Feb 5, 2016 9:16:53 GMT -7
Now I am getting really disappointed reading this thread. I am 5.3', 120lbs female, 0 ape index and have bouldered up to V5, on the problems I can reach the holds. I have onsighted V4 if it is not reachy and matches my style. Have been climbing for about 2 years pretty inconsistently (unfortunately) I have some V5 to V7 boulders I would like to complete so I started training a week ago. Do you have any recommendations for some things I should focus on more to compensate for my lack of reach? would it be best to focus on dynos during the base fitness? Or any other suggestions for later stages of the training? I think my muscles are pretty strong (can do > 15 strict pull-ups, > 5 chest to bar pullups and > 3 strict muscle-ups in a row, I can also do 45lb weighted pull-ups for 1-2 reps). Any tips that would help me compensate for my lack of reach would be so so greatly appreciated. I am already afraid reading this that I won't be able to do anything on the campus board, since some of the posts here are from 5.11 tall climbers that talk about lack of reach  |
|
|
|
Post by jessebruni on Feb 5, 2016 9:25:30 GMT -7
Lack of reach is more of a problem in the gym than outdoors. In the gym, setters set to a certain body type and don't put in intermediates. Outside there's almost always intermediate holds, they just usually suck. Shorter people have to be a little stronger to some degree, but I wouldn't worry about it too much, the best climbers in the world are short in stature. I'd focus on really eliminating any fear of moving dynamically. If you see that you need to jump to a hold you should be 100% okay with that. That should help you more than anything else. And don't stop working strength, when you're short you often have to be stronger to compensate.
|
|
|
|
Post by alexandra on Feb 5, 2016 9:33:03 GMT -7
Thanks! I am indeed not good at moving fast and dynamically, so I am looking forward to the power phase of the training. Meanwhile I am incorporating the blind dyno and deadpoint drills in the BF phase, but it is hard to do them on overhung (where I really would like to focus on) when I am staying on the wall for 30 mins at a time, I get overly pumped!
|
|
|
|
Post by jessebruni on Feb 5, 2016 10:36:51 GMT -7
In my experience, for most girls (or guys who have issues with moving dynamically, but this seems to be more rare), the problem is less about skill and ability to move dynamically, and more about willingness. Maybe this is biological, I've read that girls are naturally less reckless then guys (and anecdotal evidence all points in this direction as well) and less likely to take risks. I think dynamic motion is inherently risky, not necessarily dangerous, but risky in a sense that it seems dangerous, and also risky in the sense that you risk falling. I think the most important thing to master for folks who don't like taking this risk is changing that mindset where you don't want to be out of control or take risks. If you can train your mind to be OKAY with being out of control, moving dynamically becomes a lot easier.
Full Disclosure: I'm much more of a static climber, I have forced myself to move more dynamically through deliberate practice, but it's something I have to constantly remind myself. Don't expect to ever get to a point where you don't have to work on it.
|
|
|
|
Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 5, 2016 11:10:40 GMT -7
I wouldn't fret over being short. I think it's an advantage in rock climbing, and in the future as humans become more specialized we will see elite climbers approach the body type of female Olympic gymnasts. I do think shortness is a disadvantage in campusing, but who cares about that (besides me)?
Anyway, I would work on making long reaches, since even "normal" reaches will feel long to you. All the successful short climbers I know are really good at getting the very most out of their reach. Practice will help with this, but so will good core strength and tremendous lock-off strength. It sounds like you're already very strong in pull-strength, so I would work on building lock-off strength and perhaps working towards a 1-arm pull-up.
|
|
|
|
Post by alexandra on Feb 5, 2016 11:43:35 GMT -7
Thanks so much Mark!I am already working about twice a week toward one arm pullup (one arm is pulling, the other is on a band, or on the (uneven) rings one arm is pulling and the other is doing a half muscle up, and other variations, but if you have tips for faster progression that would be great). I don't think I yet understand very well how to build lock off strength. I can pull myself up on the bar and hold myself up there for a while, but I haven't figured out how to practice that at the gym (my gym is really small with no designated training wall and I am still figuring out how to be creative).
Jesse: thanks for the post!I don't think lack of recklessness is my main issue. Coming form big wave surfing, I am used to being out of control and just relaxing (cause if you don't, you drown). I think I lack the power to get up there. I fall off most dynos I attempt, or I am not even close to the target hold and I cannot pull myself up dynamically from a variety of holds except from jugs and crimps. I am trying to figure out if this is lack of contact strength, coordination, finger strength or whatever else. Either way, I am committed to improving so thanks so much for all the advice!!!
|
|
|
|
Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 5, 2016 12:09:14 GMT -7
Coming form big wave surfing, I am used to being out of control and just relaxing (cause if you don't, you drown). You're out of our league, maybe you should be giving us advice |
|
|
|
Post by erick on Feb 5, 2016 12:18:08 GMT -7
Zak, I am a similar size to you 5'10" 150 and I am currently climbing at a similar level, boulder V7 Sport, 12d. BUT I am no where near as strong as you are, still mid HB cycle but on -10 closed crimp, and -40 small pinch. I know my contact strength and pull power is a big weakness. During my last cycle I was very happy to be able to hit 1, 3, 6 with both arms on small metolius rungs. I was also very pleased to hit 1, 2, 3 doing doubles on small rungs. With your size and strength you should be able to hit 1, 4, 7 once you have learned the movement. Thats my goal for this cycle.
Also, one drill that I have found helpful for practicing dynamic verse static movement is to find a problem that is at your on sight limit. Work the problem completely static and slow with all open hand grips if possible, then work the problem moving dynamically for each move. It becomes clear quickly when dynamic movement is better and when static moments is preferred, it will also show your personal preferences and help determine what you should focus on.
|
|
I'll contribute! I'm 6 foot tall and weigh about 172 pounds. Ape index is spot on 0… I've just campussed 1-4-7 on 25 mm rungs (moon spacing) and a board inclination of 16 degrees. I've bouldered several V8/V9 boulders (up to FB 7B+) last year, but this was my first power phase and the first time I've done campus training. It took 12 campus sessions in total to get to 1-4-7.
