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Post by heelhook on Dec 13, 2014 13:08:16 GMT -7
I'm unsure whether to include limit bouldering as a beginner on the power phase. On page 134 the book says beginners should spend 0 minutes on limit bouldering yet on page 147 the calendar for beginners includes three sessions of limit bouldering. What should I stick to then?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 13, 2014 14:51:42 GMT -7
Ya, that is confusing. The session is called "Limit Boudlering", but you shouldn't really do any true LIMIT Bouldering. Instead you should spend more time on the Warmup Boulder Ladder and Hard Bouldering. The reasoning is that beginners will benefit more from trying lots of pretty hard moves, as opposed to spending 30 minutes trying the same two or three moves over and over again.
So bottom line, you should still include boulder sessions in your training, but keep the difficulty to the point that the hardest problems you work are easy enough (for you) that you can send them in a single bouldering session. Hope that clears things up.
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Post by heelhook on Dec 13, 2014 14:56:23 GMT -7
Totally does. Thanks!
I haven't done any bouldering (as I find it so much less motivating than sport climbing), so I'm sure that doing some sort of bouldering moves is going to help with my performance; I find that I struggle a lot on cruxy routes. I.e. I'm working on a 7a (probably had done about 8 attempts so far) that has two cruxes yet I've sent an endurance-battle 7b in four attempts.
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tclack88
New Member
Power Phase
Posts: 22
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Post by tclack88 on Oct 23, 2018 1:38:09 GMT -7
First of all. Thanks for your guys' book. It's exciting to see a sure-fire way towards continuous improvement.
Getting ready to enter my power phase. What is a hard and fast rule to be considered a beginner exactly?
- < 5.xx climber
- < V?
- New to Training
- Some combination of the above?
I'm keen on starting and LB sounds amazing, I'd hate to have to wait a few seasons before starting it if I can help it.
(Sorry for replying to an old post, but I figure it's better than starting a new/duplicate one)
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Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 23, 2018 8:20:10 GMT -7
Your welcome!
I recommend you start with the Beginner program. If you get through it with no issues and feel like you're ready to do more, switch to the Intermediate program next time. There's really no down side to starting too easy. There are many terrible down sides to starting too hard.
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