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Post by rctmdotcom on Apr 14, 2014 19:52:44 GMT -7
Val said:
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 14, 2014 20:27:54 GMT -7
Val,
You can definitely train endurance on a hangboard, it just isn't very interesting. Remove a relatively large amount of weight, and then cycle your hands through a variety of groups, alternating between smaller and larger holds, and shaking out on jugs as necessary. Perform multiple sets of 15-30 minutes as you would for an endurance workout in the gym.
It may help to have a movie or something to watch watch during your workout.
Good luck, Mark
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Post by Greying on Granite on May 11, 2014 5:26:45 GMT -7
Is this what you would recommend in lieu of ARC warmups for the strength phase? The hangboard at my gym does not have a pulley setup and I do not have a wall at home (yet!). I'm just starting my first training "season" and am trying to plan ahead as to how I will make each phase work with the limited resources and time I have available.
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Post by tomfallen on May 11, 2014 10:23:01 GMT -7
I warm up for my hangboard workouts on a hangboard. It's really boring, but don't take me that long.
My hangboard is the Moonboard, which I like, but it doesn't really have any easy holds (for me), so to use a pulley and hang I'd have to take off 100+ pounds. I don't have that much weight, and I think it would be awkward anyway. So I stand on a crash pad while hanging. Partially this is because my hangboard is mounted too high (I'm renting), but also because the flex of the pad makes it easier to modulate the force I'm putting into the hangboard. (Or maybe it's because I'm a boulderer, and just feel more comfortable standing on a pad than hanging from a rope.)
I do 2.5 minutes on the hangboard followed by 2.5 minutes rest, for three sets. I try to get a very mild pump during each set. By the third set I'm trying to do some heavier hangs to prepare for the actual workout.
The big disadvantage of this setup is that it's not really repeatable at all. For a warmup this seems fine, but for a workout this could be a problem. Doing an actual workout like this seems deathly boring to me, but I also can't deal with treadmills or stationary bikes.
Can you warm up by ARCing at the gym, then drive home and hangboard?
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Post by Greying on Granite on May 11, 2014 12:35:25 GMT -7
Can you warm up by ARCing at the gym, then drive home and hangboard? Well a 20 to 30 minute drive home would mean I wasn't warm anymore. Anyone else have any tips for warming up at home?
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dc
New Member
Posts: 14
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Post by dc on May 12, 2014 3:56:22 GMT -7
I warm up by doing 5-10 mins x 2 on the hang board with my feet on a chair, simulating a slight overhang, moving around the hang board holding each grip type for 3-7 seconds with the occasional shake on the big holds. I have a few minutes break between sets where I warm my shoulders up with rotator cuff exercises. Pretty boring but I stick the radio on and it works well.
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Post by MarkAnderson on May 12, 2014 15:14:21 GMT -7
Can you warm up by ARCing at the gym, then drive home and hangboard? Well a 20 to 30 minute drive home would mean I wasn't warm anymore. Anyone else have any tips for warming up at home? I used to do this when I lived in Albuquerque. It would take me about 20-25 minutes to get from the gym to home. Not ideal, but I made it work by getting "over warm" at the gym (i.e., a bit pumped). Once I got home, I started with 3 easier sets on a big hold on the hangboard to re-warm-up before getting serious. Remember, when route climbing outside we routinely go an hour or more between attempts, without warming up again. I use this same strategy for outdoor cragging when my time is severly limited. Warmup at home, jump in the car and drive to the crag. I've gone as long as an hour between warmup and first burn!
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Post by Greying on Granite on May 12, 2014 21:04:10 GMT -7
Thanks, Mark.
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Post by tscupp on May 16, 2014 17:54:15 GMT -7
I've been training endurance (ARC) and warming up on a hangboard for a while. This is by no means a perfect method but I rotate through several grips with a 15 s on and 15 s off. I do this for about 10 min (stop there if just warming up) then I raise the time to 20s on 10 off and sometimes up to 25s on 10off. I find this does a few things well including simulating resting/shakes. For the most part, the 30s bundle makes it much easier to stay focused. I imagine doing 7/3 off would be hard to do for 30 min straight. As for intensity. I do it with feet on a step ladder a few feet under the hangboard. I put the step ladder in the exact same position each time. As far as foot placement, I place them in roughly the same spot on the ladder each time. I do have a pulley to take weight off but I don't feel that for ARC/endurance/warm up, there isn't the same level of precision needed as for an intensive, near limit strength/power set.
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Post by climber511 on Feb 13, 2015 7:35:22 GMT -7
I made up a grip machine that is as close as I can come to imitating the climbing action (I copied it from a picture I saw on the internet). It seems to work pretty well for warming up. It's use isn't clear in the picture but you hook your thumbs around the light gray pad (to the left) - reach out and grab the small edges that are hanging down in the pictures but rotate freely to where you grab them with your fingertips. You can do either one or two hands or close with two - lower with one or whatever. Most grip machine don't seem anything like climbing - this is the closest I could come up with. Handles much more weight than you would ever need.
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