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Post by solwertkin on Jan 7, 2015 15:07:25 GMT -7
The get psyched thread! AWESOME! Cool to see some other fellow PNW folks on here with their goals, some i've sent, others i've yet to. Goals for 2015:Bouldering: - Wrap up a few nemesis V9's: The Coffee Cup, The Prism
- Solidify myself as a V10 climber after sending my first this fall: Thunderdome, Full Time Night Woman, Johnny Appleseed
- Push into V11's: project Beautification and The Practitioner
Sport: - Rockarolla 13-
- Fifth Force 12+
- Numbah Ten 12
- Redpoint Nason Cave in a day
Trad: - Squeak of the Humiliated 12-
- Iron Horse Full 11+
- Narrow Arrow Direct 12+
- Narrow Arrow Overhang 13-
Alpine: - Free Ascent Walsh/Lavigne var to Spicy Red Beans and Rice on North Howser Tower 12
- The Tiger 12
- Injustice for All 12
- Freedom or Death 12-
- Wrap up nemesis alpine routes: Independence Route 12-, Let it Burn 12-
- Finish Project X in the Stuart Range
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Post by slimshaky on Jan 7, 2015 20:50:32 GMT -7
sentry box is a great route for sure! my goals for the year: 1) the example 2) be supportive of my wife while her foot is healing (by helping her train, and being careful about what outdoors areas/routes she is selecting) 3) reduce the amount of time that i drive my wife crazy to below 50% (aim for the stars and hope that you can at least hit the top of the garage roof!)
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Post by joshvillen on Jan 9, 2015 9:46:51 GMT -7
Goals for 2015
1-5-8
Climb more v11's and do at least one v12
Single arm hang on a 1/2 pad crimp
double clutch 1-5
Send a couple 5.13s and start working a 5.14, possibly "Parallel Universe" at Rumney
Start working "child of the storm v13" at Pawtuckaway
Regain the psyche I had when I first started climbing and take it less seriously
Drive out to Bishop or Joes in march
Work Mandala, Maze of death, and Evilution
Force hard move screaming (like Ondra) without worrying what other people think
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Post by James_E on Jan 12, 2015 11:05:45 GMT -7
My goals: -Actually stick to the training plan. I just started my first strength phase, already botched the base fitness phase because training around the holidays is next to impossible. -Climb Technorigine (12c) and Californicator (12d), and then link them to climb Californication (13a). -Boulder v8 outside (unlikely because I don't boulder much outside). -Climb the Passenger (11+) at Washington Pass. -Onsight 12a on my trip to Ten Sleep Canyon (Early July) -Climb 12a trad (probably Sentry Box in Squamish) Hmmnn. We should talk, considering that we have overlapping goal routes (at Little Si). By overlapping, I mean that the routes actually overlap-- sharing big sections of climbing! Always looking for more climbing partners. (And as kerwin mentions, Sentry Box is a great choice as a trad 12a goal route). Definitely! You can give me all the beta . I definitely need more climbing partners, and most of the ones I have probably won't want to spend that much time at the World Wall. Also I really need to go check out Equinox sooner or later.
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Post by James_E on Jan 12, 2015 11:06:40 GMT -7
Goals for the year: Bouldering: Send local classic boulder test piece, Chutzpah V10/V11 Trad: -Onsight a consensus 5.12a (have onsighted a few pitches of 5.12 that felt much easier then the grade standard to me). -Climb (redpoint) 5 classic/neo-classic Pacific Northwest free lines (Thin Red Line, The Tiger, The U-Wall, Let it Burn, Good Girls Like Bad Boys). -Climb local test piece Power Horse (5.12d), with the extension (5.13). Hell, we should talk too. Maybe we can get together a little network of Seattle-area training freaks. Not a bad idea. Maybe start a facebook group or something where we can share our progress and generally spray about how awesome we are?
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Post by joev9 on Jan 13, 2015 13:58:41 GMT -7
First V10 (still trying to find the right one, so just a grade goal at the moment).
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Post by heelhook on Jan 13, 2015 15:27:26 GMT -7
My goals for 2015:
- Send my first 7c (5.12d) route and 6c (V5) boulder - Send 7 7bs - Raise onsight level to 7a+
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alanl
New Member
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Post by alanl on Jan 18, 2015 3:34:51 GMT -7
I was carefully working my way through the world's grading scales.
In 2013 I redpointed my first UIAA VIII- (5.11c) Last year I redpointed my first 7a (5.11d)
This year the obvious target seemed like 5.12a / 7a+
But then two things happened: first the guys on ukbouldering told me that wasn't ambitious enough and I should be going for 7b; then I read Mark's blog post about Frankenjura classics, especially Sautanz, and since the 'jura is my kind-of-local area (two to three hours drive) I set my sights on that. It's 7b+ (5.12c) though, which might be a bit of a stretch for one year.
So: Sautanz 2016. This year? Progress towards Sautanz next year, redpoint 7b. Haven't spotted *the* 7b yet - am open to any recommendations in the general Frankenjura / Bavaria / Eastern Alps region.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jan 20, 2015 11:05:42 GMT -7
Here are my suggestions based on my very limited experience and minimal understanding of the UIAA Grade Scale:
Fight Gravity - perhaps the most classic New Dimensions - my personal favorite, and the most like Sautanz of the three (vertical and techy with small holds) Goldenes Dach - the easiest and most straight forward. Not very cruxy, so would be easier to work down.
Weissenstein has some great routes too, but I don't know if any of them are 7b.
Finally, don't be so sure Sautanz is out of the question for 2015. See how the next few months go...
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alanl
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Post by alanl on Jan 21, 2015 11:24:43 GMT -7
Great tips Mark, thanks. Especially New Dimensions - the Ankatalwand looks fantastic, and plus-or-minus-vertical/crimpy/techy is very much my home style. Computerspiele - the 7a to the left of New Dimensions - was already high on my to-do list.
(My avatar pic was in fact taken by the FA of Computerspiele, who also put up Katalysator and a bunch of other mid-grade 'jura classics)
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Post by PME on Feb 6, 2015 10:56:08 GMT -7
My goals:
Boulder v10 this fall(i have my eye on several) Onsight Positive Vibrations on the Incredible Hulk in the Sierras. (11a) I have 3/4 goal sport routes I would like to do. All in the 12d/13a range They are all achievable and I can absolutely do these.
Training specific goals: I want like to do a set of 20 pull ups I want to do a 5 second lock off with each arm. For whatever reason I am not that strong. Luckily I know how to use my feet.
Good luck to everyone else!
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alanl
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Post by alanl on Feb 6, 2015 14:42:54 GMT -7
>Onsight Positive Vibrations on the Incredible Hulk in the Sierras. (11a)
I just read the description of that on Mountain Project - sounds great.
I generally find the problem with alpine multipitch goals is not so much being ready, and knowing I'm ready, but hitting that fluke weekend when fitness, freedom from family commitments, the right partner and decent weather all fall together. Last summer I had a big goal in the Kaisergebirge, "Zone Oned" myself into a stupor for months following last year's other great training book*, organised a complete week free from work and family commitments ... and it rained all week. Torrentially.
But hopefully summer weather in the Sierra is a bit more stable than in the Alps.
*Steve House's one - am I allowed to mention that?
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Post by PME on Feb 9, 2015 17:39:09 GMT -7
>Onsight Positive Vibrations on the Incredible Hulk in the Sierras. (11a) I just read the description of that on Mountain Project - sounds great. I generally find the problem with alpine multipitch goals is not so much being ready, and knowing I'm ready, but hitting that fluke weekend when fitness, freedom from family commitments, the right partner and decent weather all fall together. Last summer I had a big goal in the Kaisergebirge, "Zone Oned" myself into a stupor for months following last year's other great training book*, organised a complete week free from work and family commitments ... and it rained all week. Torrentially. But hopefully summer weather in the Sierra is a bit more stable than in the Alps. *Steve House's one - am I allowed to mention that?I agree. Onsighting Positive Vibrations is totally doable. Also, the weather in the Sierras is very stable in the summer. It is just a matter of going and doing it.
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Post by Carl0s on Feb 17, 2015 16:18:36 GMT -7
My Goals: Spring: Upside V8 at the Buttermilks, Bishop, Ca Fear of the black hat V9 at Red Rocks, Nevada Stain Glass V10 at the Buttermilks, Bishop Ca
Fall: Xavior's Roof V11 at the Buttermilks, Bishop Ca Fall 2015/Spring 2016: Wet Dream V12 at Red Rocks, Nevada
Oveall Spring Goal: To complete a bouldering pyramid that tops out at V10 (8-6-4-2-1) Overall Fall/Spring 2015/2016: to complete a bouldering pyramid that tops out at V12
I have climbed a handfull of V8s, but only one V9. So.....I am kind of nervous about writting about my goals this year/early next year.
Wish you all the best of luck with your personal goals and don't forget to video or take pictures to share with this community.
Carlos
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Post by Ben C. on May 19, 2015 5:44:49 GMT -7
- Too Many Puppies
- Outdoor V8
- Prometheus Unbound
- 12c on-sight
- No Place Like Home
I really wanted this list to be quite a bit different, but I didn't score a spot in 24HHH so pretty traditional number pushing with a few aesthetic or historical routes thrown in.
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