|
|
Post by tradmike on Dec 31, 2014 16:23:32 GMT -7
Well I am not one for resolutions, however i am goal oriented and like to work towards an objective. What goals you have for yourself climbing and otherwise?
Short term goals: Do 20 pull-ups , pull up plus 100 pounds, Have 10% bodyfat or weigh 185, Climb 5.11c in gym. Eat with a purpose no junk food. By end of June
Long term for the year Complete entire trad climbing list, Climb Sometimes crack on lead 5.10 trad at devils lake Do one arm pull-up. Have Six pack Abs(not super important never had em). keep detailed workout log, Complete 37 route birthday challenge. Climb Exum ridge in Grand Tetons.
Pretty ambitious but why not aim high.
Lastly feel free to use this thread as a way to motivate each other.
|
|
|
|
Post by tedwelser on Jan 1, 2015 20:15:51 GMT -7
I like this general question. Thanks for posting it! I have been writing down goals for the coming year. Here are some of them: - Climb more with my wife and kids. This includes climbing at out home wall, at a the indoor gym in the nearby city, and going in trips to the Red and New. Right now climbing is more "my thing" than "our thing" so I want to change that dynamic.
- Repeat some fun routes again. I would like to do repeat Mercy the Huff (a pivotal route in my climbing development, it taught me how to rest and how to accurately remember many moves). I would like to send several other routes at the Red and New that I have done in the past in order to understand them again.
- Visit at least 5 new crags. I have not climbed at many of the newer areas at the Red, and a couple new walls at the New, like the 0 buttress at the meadow, or the new crag beyond Whipporwill at Summersville. I would like to climb there and also, at new areas at other climbing destinations. I am travelling to Europe (Slovenia) in May, and I would love to hit several new crags there.
- Climb at least 3 days per month outdoors. This will be tricky in January, but in general I think this should be easy to pull off, especially because there is outdoor climbing in my hometown (Athens, OH).
- Visit at least two new bouldering areas. Likely this will be Colls Cove and either Little Rock City or Grayson Highlands because these are the most interesting areas that I have not already been to.
- Put up at least 5 new bouldering first ascents. This should be doable for sure because we identified a new bouldering area in our hometown with dozens of new problems. I am naming this goal because I want to make sure I get out there and climb those new routes.
|
|
|
|
Post by jonfrisby on Jan 3, 2015 11:27:50 GMT -7
Nice thread idea!! Let's all get stoked and keep each other motivated
Finish Shape Shifter 12c in Connecticut this Spring
Climb 12d or 13a this year - not sure what this looks like
Birthday challenge - 27 5.9 or harder routes on September 21
V8 in the gym
V7 outside - I know grade goals are less useful than route goals, but I'm not sure where all I'll be climbing this year so grade/route type goals are a bit easier to set
Buy a vehicle for my 4 month road trip summer 2016 - get sponsors LOL
Figure out how to climb for charity - I'm diabetic, so I think raising some money for the JDRF would be pretty fun and I can't run a 10K for the life of me.
Add 3-4 states to my list of crags visited.
Learn to trad climb
|
|
|
|
Post by jcm on Jan 4, 2015 10:18:32 GMT -7
This is a good idea. It can be worthwhile just to write these down. So, goals:
1. Training: Focus on using hangboard, campus board, and bouldering to address shortcomings in power (esp. quickly latching holds) and crimp strength. Send a few "black problems" at the local gym.
2. Redpoint 13d (Reach goal: redpoint 14a). I have a good strategy for this one, using the main goal as a possible stepping stone for the reach goal. 13d goal routes are Porn Star (Little Si, WA) and Heat (Chek, BC). Both routes are quite long (suits my style) and feature an easy first half and a hard second half. Also, they both feature the option to incorporate a harder first half into the original upper cruxes, producing very long and sustained 14a routes (Pornification and Patience, respectively). If success comes in a reasonable amount of time on either 13d route, I can then try to do the corresponding "reach goal" link...or push that goal to 2016 if I need to.
3. Onsight 12d. I am hoping to make a trip to Skaha in October for ~1 week, where I would focus mainly on onsight climbing. This is a specifically selected location for this objective, since there are a ton of routes in the target onsight range, and the climbing style and rock type are conducive to onsighting. Alternatively, if the cards really line up in my favor, this might instead become a late October trip to the Red, with a similar primary objective. Time will tell.
4. Continue to consolidate and diversify at 13b/c. In particular, I'd like to do a least one "anti-style" route in this grade range. For me, this means crimpy, bouldery, powerful, vertical...i.e. Smith Rock. Rude Boys is a very appealing option for this one.
5. No injuries! Keep up with the Thera-Band shoulder work.
|
|
|
|
Post by tradmike on Jan 4, 2015 10:52:25 GMT -7
Man I feel week reading your replies. I have been climbing three years as a weekend warrior and still have not done an 11 outside and everyone on here is banging out 13's and 14a What is the secret.
|
|
|
|
Post by jonfrisby on Jan 4, 2015 13:09:20 GMT -7
JCM, your method for goal 2 is a really good idea - one of my long term goal routes is Urban Surfer 13d at Rumney, which includes Suburban, an easier 13, and which can be extended/varied into Cold War 14a. I like the idea of dialing a large chunk of a hard route by redpointing an easier route on the way to finishing off the harder climb.
|
|
|
|
Post by Chris W on Jan 4, 2015 14:03:02 GMT -7
Man I feel week reading your replies. I have been climbing three years as a weekend warrior and still have not done an 11 outside and everyone on here is banging out 13's and 14a What is the secret. Mike, you have to start where you are and shouldn't feel bad about that. I've been stuck at the same level, 5.11 outside, for several years and I'm trying to send my first 12a. I've only started to do something about it (training) this past March once the Anderson's got their book published but have been climbing regularly since 2008. I'm already noticing some measureable improvement, thanks to keeping a training log for this first time, and this is very motivating, especially since I didn't send my goal route this fall.
To get to 5.12, I'm trying to send a large number of 5.11 climbs (starting with a, going to d) at my local crag this spring to build a good base. I know I can send them all, but I'm sure I will eat a lot of humble pie in the process because I'm not as strong "in the flesh" as I am "in my mind's eye". I'll then try for 5.12 in the fall. If you've already started training with only three years of climbing under your belt, you're actually way ahead of the game.
Take small steps easy steps to improve and focus on what is in front of you (5.10a, b, etc.) instead of looking at 5.13 and getting discouraged. When you do see improvement, it will be very motivating. I've read a bunch of your posts and, from what it sounds, I'll bet you could advance pretty quickly if you'd really focus on your nutrition and lose some weight.
Just my two cents...
|
|
|
|
Post by daustin on Jan 4, 2015 16:43:18 GMT -7
Great thread idea! Love reading people's goals, and recording my own will probably help me stick with them better. The one challenge I have is that I don't have my "big trip" for the year planned at all. I really have no idea what the big trip will be; last year it was a week at the RRG in Oct., and I could imagine something similar this year. My goals will likely modulate somewhat once I have a better idea what type of climbing I'll be training for later in the year.
1) Diet/Weight: Continue to adhere to a good, healthy diet during training phases, with ultimate goal of getting down to ~155-160 lbs. ahead of the eventual "big trip"
2) Projecting: Find a "stretch" route to project at one of my local crags (in the Sonora Pass, CA). Even since starting my periodized training regimen last year, I've never really projected a route and can only think of a handful of routes that I've put in more than 3 or 4 burns on. Now that I am able to get to my local crags on a somewhat regular basis, I'd like to find a real project. My goal isn't even necessarily to send a specific project, but just to actually try something I don't expect to send quickly and put in a lot of work on it.
3) Consistently send 5.12: Similar to the above point, since I haven't really given multiple burns on many routes before, I've always struggled to know what I can 'consistently' send. There are a number of 5.12 routes at my local crags that I haven't sent, but that I was able to one-hang within my first few attempts. Basically, I just want to finish these up
4) Send Agent Orange (sport, 5.12b) and The Pearl (V4/5) in Red Rocks: This is my most specific goal. I'm not 100% sure yet, but it's likely that I'll be in Vegas towards the end of January, and will probably have at least a couple days to climb. I've given each of these climbs a few tries in the past, but feel significantly stronger now and would love to see how they feel. I haven't trained specifically for them, so I'm not SUPER invested in sending them, but I feel like they'll be within my reach even just with my general improvement since I've tried them.
5) Go on a "big trip": Per my preamble, this might go without saying, but it's going to be a busy year for me, and I will need to be pretty thoughtful about finding a full week to take off and climb. I'd love to get back to the RRG, but the travel/logistics are pretty tough, so I need to have alternatives, too.
|
|
|
|
Post by jessebruni on Jan 5, 2015 12:20:55 GMT -7
Send this route: www.youtube.com/watch?v=lk0DMgMmlZUAs of yesterday I can only do about 50% of the moves on their own, and couldn't link pretty much any of them, so I'm a very long way's away. I feel personally that setting "ridiculously ambitious" goals makes me push myself much harder than I would otherwise and I end up training harder, and smarter and improve more than if I had slightly more achievable goals. In the end, even not achieving the goal, if I get much better due to trying to achieve it then I think it's a success. Other goals: 1 arm pull up, 1 arm lockoff for 10 seconds, front lever. |
|
|
|
Post by kerwinl on Jan 5, 2015 17:18:10 GMT -7
Goals for the year:
Bouldering:
Send local classic boulder test piece, Chutzpah V10/V11
Trad:
-Onsight a consensus 5.12a (have onsighted a few pitches of 5.12 that felt much easier then the grade standard to me).
-Climb (redpoint) 5 classic/neo-classic Pacific Northwest free lines (Thin Red Line, The Tiger, The U-Wall, Let it Burn, Good Girls Like Bad Boys).
-Climb local test piece Power Horse (5.12d), with the extension (5.13).
|
|
|
|
Post by iepsje on Jan 7, 2015 5:03:10 GMT -7
Good topic!
My goals for 2015
- lead climb 7b outside (5.12B)! (I have some in mind, but can't choose).
- onsight 6c+ outside
- keep weight < 62.0kg
- 10 pull-ups & 20 push-ups
|
|
|
|
Post by James_E on Jan 7, 2015 9:20:47 GMT -7
My goals:
-Actually stick to the training plan. I just started my first strength phase, already botched the base fitness phase because training around the holidays is next to impossible.
-Climb Technorigine (12c) and Californicator (12d), and then link them to climb Californication (13a).
-Boulder v8 outside (unlikely because I don't boulder much outside).
-Climb the Passenger (11+) at Washington Pass.
-Onsight 12a on my trip to Ten Sleep Canyon (Early July)
-Climb 12a trad (probably Sentry Box in Squamish)
|
|
|
|
Post by kerwinl on Jan 7, 2015 10:20:54 GMT -7
My goals: -Actually stick to the training plan. I just started my first strength phase, already botched the base fitness phase because training around the holidays is next to impossible. -Climb Technorigine (12c) and Californicator (12d), and then link them to climb Californication (13a). -Boulder v8 outside (unlikely because I don't boulder much outside). -Climb the Passenger (11+) at Washington Pass. -Onsight 12a on my trip to Ten Sleep Canyon (Early July) -Climb 12a trad (probably Sentry Box in Squamish) Great goals I actually had both Sentry Box and the Passenger as goals last year, they fit well together. If you can climb Sentry Box you should have no problems on the Passenger. |
|
|
|
Post by jcm on Jan 7, 2015 10:23:03 GMT -7
My goals: -Actually stick to the training plan. I just started my first strength phase, already botched the base fitness phase because training around the holidays is next to impossible. -Climb Technorigine (12c) and Californicator (12d), and then link them to climb Californication (13a). -Boulder v8 outside (unlikely because I don't boulder much outside). -Climb the Passenger (11+) at Washington Pass. -Onsight 12a on my trip to Ten Sleep Canyon (Early July) -Climb 12a trad (probably Sentry Box in Squamish) Hmmnn. We should talk, considering that we have overlapping goal routes (at Little Si). By overlapping, I mean that the routes actually overlap-- sharing big sections of climbing! Always looking for more climbing partners. (And as kerwin mentions, Sentry Box is a great choice as a trad 12a goal route). |
|
|
|
Post by jcm on Jan 7, 2015 10:27:27 GMT -7
Goals for the year: Bouldering: Send local classic boulder test piece, Chutzpah V10/V11 Trad: -Onsight a consensus 5.12a (have onsighted a few pitches of 5.12 that felt much easier then the grade standard to me). -Climb (redpoint) 5 classic/neo-classic Pacific Northwest free lines (Thin Red Line, The Tiger, The U-Wall, Let it Burn, Good Girls Like Bad Boys). -Climb local test piece Power Horse (5.12d), with the extension (5.13). Hell, we should talk too. Maybe we can get together a little network of Seattle-area training freaks. |
|
