Post by nico on Dec 22, 2014 11:05:41 GMT -7
Hello Mark,
I really like your book as it is very detailed and practical. I am enjoying reading it.
I have a bad history of finger injury, every time the Pulleys (A2 in particular). Once again I injured one of my finger (the right hand this time). I could still climb with some pain but this time I stopped and rested. (in the past I tapped and kept climbing to the point that it was much worst and forced me to stop).
Though my challenge this time has been that every time I have tried to come back the pain was back as soon as crimping. So i ended up being on and off for slightly more than a month. This last injury, even if minor, made me realized why in the past I had so many injuries: bad foot work, crimping way too much and some overgriping. This time I am still still overgripping and crimping too much...
In your book you recommend the following:"Keep fingers looking good - ... I began my rehab after 2 weeks of complete rest, followed by a 4 weeks course of conservative, progressive hangboarding."
1) When to stop? as soon as you start pain? Stop only painfull grips and down scale training or climbing grades?
2) Will continuing aggravate the situation even if removing the painfull grip(s)? Even if while climbing you don't feel anything, but after it is sore for a few days. Note, I kept doing contrast baths [cold (icy water), hot water, ...,cold water (1 min each for 11 min)].
3) After 2 weeks of rest, did you have any pain left while moving your finger, massaging it or pressuring the A2 pulley?
4) During your fingerboarding training did you experience any pain or discomfort?
5) After fingerboarding, did you feel any pain soreness while moving your finger, massaging it or pressuring it?
6) The next days following your fingerboarding training, how did you feel and how did you feel before starting again your next training?
8) Later in that paragraph, you said you took 3 weeks off, what were the reasons for that? how did your finger feel at that time?
7) For somebody that does not have a baseline for fingerboarding, what will you recommend in term of percentage of body weigth removed?
I am still debating if I should stay away from climbing or not but for a longer period this time (maybe 3 or 4 weeks). I have the start of a long climbing trip coming in February and I want to be healthy again.
Thanks for answering my questions.
Happy holidays.
I really like your book as it is very detailed and practical. I am enjoying reading it.
I have a bad history of finger injury, every time the Pulleys (A2 in particular). Once again I injured one of my finger (the right hand this time). I could still climb with some pain but this time I stopped and rested. (in the past I tapped and kept climbing to the point that it was much worst and forced me to stop).
Though my challenge this time has been that every time I have tried to come back the pain was back as soon as crimping. So i ended up being on and off for slightly more than a month. This last injury, even if minor, made me realized why in the past I had so many injuries: bad foot work, crimping way too much and some overgriping. This time I am still still overgripping and crimping too much...
In your book you recommend the following:"Keep fingers looking good - ... I began my rehab after 2 weeks of complete rest, followed by a 4 weeks course of conservative, progressive hangboarding."
1) When to stop? as soon as you start pain? Stop only painfull grips and down scale training or climbing grades?
2) Will continuing aggravate the situation even if removing the painfull grip(s)? Even if while climbing you don't feel anything, but after it is sore for a few days. Note, I kept doing contrast baths [cold (icy water), hot water, ...,cold water (1 min each for 11 min)].
3) After 2 weeks of rest, did you have any pain left while moving your finger, massaging it or pressuring the A2 pulley?
4) During your fingerboarding training did you experience any pain or discomfort?
5) After fingerboarding, did you feel any pain soreness while moving your finger, massaging it or pressuring it?
6) The next days following your fingerboarding training, how did you feel and how did you feel before starting again your next training?
8) Later in that paragraph, you said you took 3 weeks off, what were the reasons for that? how did your finger feel at that time?
7) For somebody that does not have a baseline for fingerboarding, what will you recommend in term of percentage of body weigth removed?
I am still debating if I should stay away from climbing or not but for a longer period this time (maybe 3 or 4 weeks). I have the start of a long climbing trip coming in February and I want to be healthy again.
Thanks for answering my questions.
Happy holidays.