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Post by Carl0s on Dec 15, 2014 17:05:13 GMT -7
Hello fellow boulderers, Hope you all are doing well, training hard and climbing memorable boulder problems. The subject of this thread is the focus of my training. I will be using this thread to log my sends, maybe talk a little about my bouldering traning, and hopefully it will help me stay inspired, and focused on achieving my goal to climb V10. My current climb pyramid tops out at V9. My hangboard and campusboard training records show good improvements, so it feels like V10 is just around the corner. But, we will just have to wait and see. I have a YouTube channel where I post most of my sends, so you can check out all my videos there or I'll post my favorite ones here. Below is a list of the completed climbs on my current bouldering pyramid for Fall/Winter of 2014. (# of climbs) (1) V9: No V9 to date (12-15-2014) but reached a high point on Soul Slinger @ The Buttermilks. Soul Slinger @ The Buttermilks 1-2-2015 (2) V8: King Cobra @ Yosemite. Gastonia @ The Buttermilks in Bishop. Serpentine @ Way Lake in Mammoth (4) V7: Green Mamba @ Way Lake Pain Grain Sit @ The Buttermilks in Bishop 1-2-2015 (6) V6: Saigon @ Buttermilks. Tied to the Whippin' Post @ Red Rocks. Atlantis @ Yosemite. Shortness of Breath @ Way Lake. Black Face @ Way Lake It's Not Easy Being Green @ Way Lake Memento Vitae @ Red Rocks (8) V5: Rene @ The Happies. Morpheus @ Way Lake Flyboy Arete @ The Buttermilks Early Exit @ The Buttermilks 1-2-2015 Pain Grain@ The Buttermilks 1-2-2015 Should I embed the videos on the Thread of do links work best? Hope to inspire some of you also to get some inspiration from some of you as well. P.S. The books is amazing and it really has helped figure out and to stay on track with my training for climbing. Carlos
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Post by Andrew on Dec 23, 2014 7:29:32 GMT -7
Carlos, It looks like you spend a lot of time around Bishop and Mammoth. I'm sure I'll run into you sooner or later. I'm mostly at the Buttermilks on Saturdays; I work full-time during the week. My goal is similar to yours although I have done one V10. Unfortunately it was five years ago, and I keep getting older. I really want to do another one this winter. I'm trying to take my training more serious. There are a ton of good V9s to do between Bishop and Mammoth; finding the right V10 is a little harder. Good luck
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Post by Carl0s on Jan 5, 2015 16:28:59 GMT -7
UPDATE!!! V9 went down this past weekend at the Buttermilks, Bishop CA
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Post by Carl0s on Jan 5, 2015 16:39:35 GMT -7
Carlos, It looks like you spend a lot of time around Bishop and Mammoth. I'm sure I'll run into you sooner or later. I'm mostly at the Buttermilks on Saturdays; I work full-time during the week. My goal is similar to yours although I have done one V10. Unfortunately it was five years ago, and I keep getting older. I really want to do another one this winter. I'm trying to take my training more serious. There are a ton of good V9s to do between Bishop and Mammoth; finding the right V10 is a little harder. Good luck Hey Andrew, I can think of THE V10 to do at The Buttermilks........Stain Glass Here are what I think some of the best/inspiring climbs there; Checkerboard V8 Flyboy Sit V8 Soul Slinger V9 Saigon Direct V9 The Fall Guy V9 Stain Glass V10 Xavier's Roof V11 The Mandala V12 I just got back two days ago, but I'm already planning my next trip for the end of January. Going to try and send Upside and give Stain Glass 5 super good attempts. Maybe I'll see you around.
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Post by joshvillen on Jan 9, 2015 13:21:52 GMT -7
I would definitely shoot for Stained Glass or Acid wash, both felt on the low end to me. You have relatively the same last move lunge as soul slinger, so I would work on powering up through that sort of move more efficiently...you hesitated for quite awhile in that video. Climb fast...Climb efficient.
You might also consider bubba gump, and zen flute
The key to getting first's of any given grade is to find something that really suites your style and give you confidence.
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Post by Carl0s on Jan 10, 2015 11:38:02 GMT -7
I would definitely shoot for Stained Glass or Acid wash, both felt on the low end to me. You have relatively the same last move lunge as soul slinger, so I would work on powering up through that sort of move more efficiently...you hesitated for quite awhile in that video. Climb fast...Climb efficient. You might also consider bubba gump, and zen flute The key to getting first's of any given grade is to find something that really suites your style and give you confidence. Thanks for the tips. Isn't Zen Flute a V9? (The last move is way too long for me) This year I will make it a goal to climb more efficient and with confidence. Stay tune for the start of a new bouldering pyramid.
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Post by dnacker on Jan 20, 2015 10:26:29 GMT -7
Acid Wash was definitely a low-end 10. Fun movement, though! Stained glass felt way harder, but easier if you like polished crimps Gotta dos: V6 Seven Spanish Angels Rio's Crack Every Color You Are V7 High Plains Drifter (Why is that not on your list yet!?) Morning Dove White V8 Pow Pow Fly Boy Sit Checkerboard V9 Soulslinger (you already did it, yay!) Toxic Avenger (powerful!) Fall Guy (Tall!) V10 Center Direct (Hard, powerful) Acid Wash (Easy, bicep intensive) Aquatic Hitchhiker (Easy, compression heel hooks) Beefcake (Weird) Stained Glass (crimpy) If you do fall guy, put some time into the low start Haroun. It's not that much harder, imo, just trickier. You want a good spotter for that one.
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Post by Carl0s on Jan 26, 2015 11:26:17 GMT -7
I have started a new tranining cycle (Jan 2015) and I'm hoping to complete this new boulder problem pyramid by the end of March 2015. Wish me luck! Below is my recorded progress: V10 (1) V9 (2) V8 (4) V7 (6) 1. Cindy Swank @ The Buttermilks in Bishop 1-24 V6 (8) 1. Drone Militia @ The Buttermilks in Bishop 1-24 2. Seven Spanish Angels @ The Buttermilks in Bishop 1-24 3. Devoted Traverse @ The Buttermilks in Bishop 1-24
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Post by Carl0s on Jan 26, 2015 11:39:58 GMT -7
Acid Wash was definitely a low-end 10. Fun movement, though! Stained glass felt way harder, but easier if you like polished crimps Gotta dos: V6 Seven Spanish AngelsRio's Crack Every Color You Are "Bad video" V7 High Plains Drifter (Why is that not on your list yet!?) Morning Dove White V8 Pow Pow Fly Boy SitCheckerboardV9 Soulslinger (you already did it, yay!) Toxic Avenger (powerful!) Fall Guy (Tall!) V10 Center Direct (Hard, powerful) Acid Wash (Easy, bicep intensive) Aquatic Hitchhiker (Easy, compression heel hooks) Beefcake (Weird) Stained Glass (crimpy) If you do fall guy, put some time into the low start Haroun. It's not that much harder, imo, just trickier. You want a good spotter for that one. Thanks man! All those are super good recommendations. I'll add some to my list for sure and I have already done some of them (I added links to my youtube video). I went and checked out Stain Glass this weekend, oh man those are small crimps! I might have to change my hangboard tranining to include only crimps.
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Post by dnacker on Jan 27, 2015 15:58:21 GMT -7
Come up to Washington sometime and try Gold Bar and Leavenworth out! There's some dope granite climbing up here!
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Post by Carl0s on Feb 17, 2015 16:02:35 GMT -7
I'm not sure why, but currently I'm lossing motivation to train. I really enjoyed climbing and sending lots of my projects in December and January, but now I can't seem to stick to my training schedule. Hueco is coming up in mid March and I don't want to waste the trip by not being prepared to send. What should I do?
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Post by jessebruni on Feb 17, 2015 17:53:13 GMT -7
Set a long term goal that you'll have to work your ass off for years to achieve and decide you really want it. (Like sending a V15) All the intermediate goals will fall into place.
Look back on all the improvement you already made and remind yourself of what it took to get there. I look over all my old redpoints and stuff when I feel like I'm lacking motivation, particularly the routes that took a lot of effort. That always seems to motivate me to push myself.
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Post by Carl0s on Feb 17, 2015 21:07:06 GMT -7
Thanks Jesse, I'll try your suggestion.
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Post by Carl0s on May 9, 2015 14:40:41 GMT -7
I have started a new tranining cycle (Jan 2015) and I'm hoping to complete this new boulder problem pyramid by the end of March 2015. Wish me luck! Below is my recorded progress: V10 (1) 1. Twilight of the Idols (High Point) 4-19 V9 (2) V8 (4) 1. Lip Service @ The Trailside Boulder in Black Mountain 4-19 V7 (6) 1. Cindy Swank @ The Buttermilks in Bishop 1-24 V6 (8) 1. Drone Militia @ The Buttermilks in Bishop 1-24 2. Seven Spanish Angels @ The Buttermilks in Bishop 1-24 3. Devoted Traverse @ The Buttermilks in Bishop 1-24 4. Trailside Arete @ The Trailside Boulder in Black Mountain 4-19 Extra Credit 1. Diamond Zen Face V1 @ The Trailside Boulders in Black Mountain 4-19 2. Blind Spot V4 @ The Trailside Boulders in Black Mountain 4-19 Hello amigos! It has been a while since I post here. My wife and I are expecting our 3rd child at the end of June, so I haven't gone out climbing as much as I would like to. Also, hanging out too much at home has made it difficult to stick with the training program and I have packed a little extra weight Back in January I sent my first V9, but haven't sent another one since and have only had a two session on my V10 project for the Spring/Summer season. Above I added a few more videos to my current bouldering pyramid. The last ones are; Trailside Arete V6 and Lip Service V8 and high point on Twilight of the Idols. I'm off to add pinches to my hang board and set it up for a session tonight. Good luck to everyone on their climbing and training!!! Carlos
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