Post by acmesalute76 on Nov 15, 2019 10:02:58 GMT -7
It would depend on your level and the angle of your board. You definitely need the kicker board foot holds or you won’t get off the ground. Those yellow holds are pretty hard though, if that’s all you have it’s going to be V5 and up on the 25 degree and at least V6 on the 40. You’d need something to warm up on.
You can definitely train power that way but it would be a lot more fun to just get more holds. And if you can’t buy them all at once I’m not sure I’d start with the yellows. The moonboard is great for power training though.
It's definitely worth it to have the Original, Set A, and Set B.
I've played around a little with the "newer" red holds and wood holds. Honestly though, it seems like the center of mass is around the 2016 setup with original, A, and B. I think you'll be happier with more holds.
I think the moonboard needs to be done right, you can't skimp on the kicker - I notice a big difference between gyms even where they have too much, or too little space under the bottom foothold row - in the gyms where there is too little space, I can't keep my heel off the ground for a lot of the low start problems. If you are going to do the moonboard, best to do it properly. Unless you are onsighting V7s, go the white and black holds first, followed by the yellow, then the red, and finally the wood holds.
In my experience moonboarding doesn't translate to the rock as well.
One-for-one, you are correct. But training raw power and body positioning has helped for me. I think it's more direct than a campus board. However, I'm reaching a point where I've recognized my technique and [lack of] mileage on hard routes is holding me back.
Post by acmesalute76 on Nov 24, 2019 19:01:28 GMT -7
My gym has a 25 degree moonboard, which I think has helped me a LOT in climbing outside. I think the 40 degree (standard) is less useful because you end up using larger holds at the same grade. I love the 25 because it still has powerful moves but you’re pulling off and latching small holds, so I think it translates really well. Most gyms don’t set anything like that either.
Obviously it depends on the climber too. For me my power and finger strength is a big weakness. If upper body strength was your weakness or you were training steeper routes or boulders, the 40 degree could be better. But the thing that makes the moonboard great is it forces a powerful, dynamic style that is similar enough to outdoor climbing.
I think the 40 degree (standard) is less useful because you end up using larger holds at the same grade.
I think this really depends on how you use the Moonboard. If you work methodically through all the benchmark problems it's a great way to really identify you weaknesses and work them in this style. It's hard then to simply use larger holds at the same grade. I'll admit, when I first started moonboarding ~2 years ago, I'd swipe through the problems and look for problems that didn't include yellow holds as I found them tweaky, but that was a mistake I believe.
Once you're climbing V5-V7 in a few tries on the moonboard, you're regularly using the yellow small holds. The wooden holds are good for teaching a different style of contact strength and body positioning, and red holds also have some interesting crimps.
Still, I agree somewhat with you, when I recently moved house I changed my board form 40 to 30 degrees, and started a discussion here where I proposed going to 25 degrees due to my preference for sightly overhanging technical climbing vs. jug hauls, think Smith Rock vs RRG. I was suggested off that. I'm finding the new angle to be working well, it's hard enough without turning anything using my small crimp holds into V9 problems.
With the 25 degree angle on the moonboard, I've heard it lacks the problems/benchmarks of the 40?