Finger strength seems to be by my weakness. I'm considering adding a couple extra weeks of hangboarding to the strength phase, is this a bad idea? What's the maximum number of weeks I should do? Also is there a way to incorporate this into the power phase?
Another issue is I had 4 pulley injuries last year, prior to that I could hangboard my body weight on the 3 finger crips. Now I need to take about 25-30lbs off and my fingers throb for the two days after so I would like to get my finger strength back while avoiding re-injuring them
Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 30, 2019 9:47:22 GMT -7
Holy glucosamine that’s a lot of pulley injuries!
I recommend that you adopt the mindset that you are rehabing, rather than training. It’s pretty unlikely that you have recovered completely from those injuries, given the relative weakness you described.
So, take lots of weight off, much more than usual, build back up slowly, taking lots of rest days and listening to your fingers. I encourage you to forget about Power for awhile. I would prescribe something like 12 rehab-focused HB workouts, then a few weeks of easy climbing with lots of rest, then if everything feels good, a proper training cycle.
Haha. Yea that's what happens when you're stubborn and decide I'll just use my good fingers.
Is there any difference between rehab-focused hangboard sessions and the beginner HB workout in the book?
Also after rehabbing the fingers a bit more, where in the training plan do you recommend I re-start training? Do I need to do redo the base fitness portion of the training plan? Or the strength one that is mainly hang boarding? Or can I start in the power phase?
I definitely wouldn't jump into power after your rehab-focused HB phase. Listen to your body and either take some rest then do another HB rehab phase (if you're still not 100%) or do a few weeks of easy climbing before launching into a normal training cycle (Base Fitness --> Strength --> etc)
Probably most important thing is to listen to your fingers and make sure you're not ignoring any signs of lasting injury.