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Post by billjomar on Apr 4, 2019 7:20:01 GMT -7
About a week and a half ago I heard a loud pop that felt like it was in my ring finger a4. There is slight pain when I press on the a4 and minimal inflammation. The last week and a half I've been doing daily rehab (glides, ricebucket, contrast baths, acupressure ring.) I was planning on starting a reduced weight hangboard cycle. Thoughts from the pros?
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Post by Charlie S on Apr 4, 2019 10:23:54 GMT -7
With an audible pop, 1.5 weeks might still be a little early.
With reduced weight hangboarding, it is REALLY reduced. Like take your base weights and then subtract 50-80 pounds. Do not "push through the pain" but aim for some stimulation of those ligaments.
Also consider some theraputty, though the rice bucket is probably similar in scope.
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Post by billjomar on Apr 4, 2019 10:40:10 GMT -7
Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I meant to include that I planned to start the hangboard rehab this Sunday or midweek next week. I was also planning on removing about 50 pounds. (I weigh 175). Do you have recommendations for what kind of grips I should be aiming to use?
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Post by Charlie S on Apr 4, 2019 11:15:53 GMT -7
Open hand! No crimps. I also found that with A2 and A4, jugs can be irritating since they put pressure on the injured ligaments, depending on location.
If it were me, I’d start on the largest edges and gradually work my way down. Pockets can be done carefully too.
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Post by billjomar on Apr 4, 2019 11:22:09 GMT -7
Excellent. I appreciate your help. Hoping to come back even stronger!
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Post by cozisco on Apr 4, 2019 16:54:33 GMT -7
As for weight, hanging should produce a "mild familiar discomfort" that dissipates and doesn't return once you stop hanging on it. A4 is tough since most holds will reproduce pain from direct pressure on the A4. So, take off whatever weight you have to to reproduce that discomfort without leaving any lasting pain.
If you haven't seen it, Matt DeStefano wrote this compilation of protocols from several different experts. It's long but helpful to have in one place.
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Post by cozisco on Apr 4, 2019 16:59:51 GMT -7
Also, for me the acupressure ring seems to aggravate pulley injuries by applying direct pressure to the injured area. I always feel like that outweighs the benefits, but your experience might be different.
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Post by billjomar on Apr 4, 2019 19:08:09 GMT -7
6 weeks sounds pretty torturous. I'll look more into it though. I would much rather heal my fingers properly than end up with nagging injuries all season. Thanks for the input!
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Post by billjomar on Apr 7, 2019 6:57:41 GMT -7
Update: so I've got my pulley system rigged up and have load tested 2 finger pocket hang with a 40 pound reduction. (Middle and ring finger.) Doing this for 10 seconds x 5 with 3 minute rests in between doesn't cause any pain. Should I continue this regime for a week or two before removing 5 pounds a week?
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Post by cozisco on Apr 8, 2019 11:29:31 GMT -7
In general, yes, in your first session you should find a load that reproduces a mild form of your discomfort (strain or slight pain). You'll likely have to play around for a while to find that load.
It can be easy to overdo it, though. There have been sessions where I didn't feel any sort of discomfort during or immediately after hanging, but woke up the next morning with a really sore pulley.
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Post by cirquebound on Apr 18, 2019 9:13:09 GMT -7
For what it is worth - I fully ruptured my A4 (Ultra-sound to confirm) on my pinkie last July. I splinted for 1 week. Then rested and reduced the inflammation for one week. Regained as much ROM in my second week before and jumped into conservative hangboarding on the 3rd week. Reduced the weight (normal +50lbs) to -50BBW Then adjusted as pain allowed and comfort increased. For me it took a month to return to +50lbs and I continued to climb the whole time and didnt full crimp until it felt alright to start crimping (which I tested on a HB) to determine where the tissue was before attempting it while climbing.
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Post by billjomar on Apr 18, 2019 11:59:29 GMT -7
Good to know! I believe I may have jumped the gun not wanting to admit my injury was as bad as i thought it might be. I ended up jumping straight into rom exercises the first week with no immobilization and started hangboarding with reduced weight by two and a half weeks. My last hangboard session left me feeling pretty darn sore and stiff the following morning, so i decided to back off and do another week or two of range of motion/active rest on some 5.8 climbs with no crimps. Hopefully I didnt mess it up too badly in rushing it.
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Post by cirquebound on Apr 22, 2019 7:13:36 GMT -7
Maybe -
I have found that over the years - that the soreness is a great indicator of your rehab. The session you describe above sounds like you just went too hard. A good ROT is if the pain is dull and not acute and is sore the next day that is fine. If the soreness last more than 2 days of rest - you have gone too hard and the next session needs to be dialed back. Use the ROM to evaluate where the fingers is before you jump back into another hang.
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Post by billjomar on Apr 22, 2019 12:13:28 GMT -7
Gotcha. Yeah it was stiff for a couple days following that hang session. I decided to splint my finger for a few days which has it feeling much better. I'm going to climb tomorrow on some easy stuff and see how I feel the next day. If I'm not too sore I think I'll hop back on the hangboard
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Post by cirquebound on May 2, 2019 9:52:24 GMT -7
GOOD LUCK!
How'd it go?
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