Slash and Burn - NRG

[brians]

I'm looking to get on Slash and Burn this season and was wondering if anyone could provide a detailed description of the route (difficulty of moves, rests, best time of day, does the roof cap keep it dry, etc).  Thank you.

[Chris W]

Belayed a friend on his send burn this fall. Power route, business is all in the first half. Bring a stick clip. Gently overhanging. I would suggest an emphasis on power in your training.

[Lundy]

Powerful moves for sure, as Chris says, but it's honestly a bit more PE. There aren't many great rests for the first 30 or so feet, but you probably move through about 14 or 15 moves that are all pretty stout. One thing that helped me send was practicing resting on a smaller crimp, like you'll encounter at the fourth (?) bolt just before the crux left hand crimp.

Here's a vid of Mikey Williams on it, though he's a total hoss, so makes it look a lot easier. It's a good camera angle though so you can see all the holds and think through your beta while he's climbing:
vimeo.com/39848889

As for your other questions, the cap doesn't really keep it dry too well, but you are out on the point so you get some breeze and the rock dries quick-ish. Don't remember if there's a preferred time of day -- it's pretty well shaded by the trees down low, and the opt is like 5.10.

Have fun -- absolutely amazing route. Sooooo fun.

[Chris W]

Nice video. But yeah, I'm pretty sure that route would be a Mikey Williams warm up. I love that rock down at the New.