Post by jv91 on Feb 7, 2019 3:01:21 GMT -7
Hello everybody,
First of all - I wanted to thank you Mark & Mike for the great resources that you share with us and for all the time and effort you put into all this, book included. So great apreciation of your work! Q: do you plan to publish a new edition of the book?
I wanted to share this great video with Dr. Bonetti, explaining some common mistakes using the campus board (eng subs). Surely you are familiar with majority of the information but you can still find there something to think of... especially if you are new in training for climbing, you are motivated to go all in - think deeply if you really need to add campus workouts and max recruitment work to your training. Tendons and ligaments take years to strenghten properly and the risk of getting an injury in these first years is huge while using these max R tools. Consider training just volume for 1-2 years at least. Projects are not going anywhere and I am sure you wont regret it. Like you guys mentioned a couple of times before - there is literaly no downside to start off training conservatively.
Here is the link: www.youtube.com/watch?v=6p-pNCrHul8
I've got one major tip for the folks out there just beginning climbing outside and leading. If you are on a climb (especialy with sharp crimps/pockets) and your foot slips, be prepared to let go imediately. This happened to me a couple of times when I was starting to climb and lead. I almost never let go (if I really didnt have to) and it ended with some tendon/ligament tweaks or big floppers almost every time. The fact that I never got serious finger injury is a pure luck I guess because many of my friends seriously hurted themselves like that. I dont recall any other scenerios (maybe also working one route too many times in one day) other than this when I hurted my fingers in my beginnings so please keep in mind to be cautious of these shock loads.
Btw. I am in my first season, currently power phase. The training brings me great results and pleasure already and I am not even in my performance phase yet. I guess the main difference to my previous training is lower volume, higher intensity and way more rest. I didnt plan my training too much until now and that was a big mistake. I used to be stressed out that I am loosing my edge if I havent been climbing for a day or two... The fact is that I was only digging myself a deeper hole to recover from and because I was never fully rested, my performance always suffered. That should have been a signal for me to take more rest but I felt that I need to train even more instead. So a vicious circle indeed. Really glad to be out of that mainly because of you guys. Thank you for everything once again and BR to USA all the way from Czechia
Jan
First of all - I wanted to thank you Mark & Mike for the great resources that you share with us and for all the time and effort you put into all this, book included. So great apreciation of your work! Q: do you plan to publish a new edition of the book?
I wanted to share this great video with Dr. Bonetti, explaining some common mistakes using the campus board (eng subs). Surely you are familiar with majority of the information but you can still find there something to think of... especially if you are new in training for climbing, you are motivated to go all in - think deeply if you really need to add campus workouts and max recruitment work to your training. Tendons and ligaments take years to strenghten properly and the risk of getting an injury in these first years is huge while using these max R tools. Consider training just volume for 1-2 years at least. Projects are not going anywhere and I am sure you wont regret it. Like you guys mentioned a couple of times before - there is literaly no downside to start off training conservatively.
Here is the link: www.youtube.com/watch?v=6p-pNCrHul8
I've got one major tip for the folks out there just beginning climbing outside and leading. If you are on a climb (especialy with sharp crimps/pockets) and your foot slips, be prepared to let go imediately. This happened to me a couple of times when I was starting to climb and lead. I almost never let go (if I really didnt have to) and it ended with some tendon/ligament tweaks or big floppers almost every time. The fact that I never got serious finger injury is a pure luck I guess because many of my friends seriously hurted themselves like that. I dont recall any other scenerios (maybe also working one route too many times in one day) other than this when I hurted my fingers in my beginnings so please keep in mind to be cautious of these shock loads.
Btw. I am in my first season, currently power phase. The training brings me great results and pleasure already and I am not even in my performance phase yet. I guess the main difference to my previous training is lower volume, higher intensity and way more rest. I didnt plan my training too much until now and that was a big mistake. I used to be stressed out that I am loosing my edge if I havent been climbing for a day or two... The fact is that I was only digging myself a deeper hole to recover from and because I was never fully rested, my performance always suffered. That should have been a signal for me to take more rest but I felt that I need to train even more instead. So a vicious circle indeed. Really glad to be out of that mainly because of you guys. Thank you for everything once again and BR to USA all the way from Czechia
Jan