|
Post by firebug on Dec 2, 2018 10:35:07 GMT -7
Climbers. Attached are a few photos of my home wall. It´s co owner designed and built it for me. He is not a passionate climber and he found the design on the Internet (definitely not looking a gift horse in the mouth - although it is technically a half gift horse). I digress. Having used the wall for the last year, I find nearly all my training gravitates toward the steeper section fo the wall, and that the low roof around the steepest part cuts off the most interesting routes. I have decided to remove the low roof section and continue the wall up so that the wall is the same height all away around (4 meters). I am also going to continue the beam up the wall to the left to fill in that section that did not get a plywood sheet. This all should give me a lot more wall with angles ranging from 25 to 35 degrees. My question is do I spare the 45 degree roof section and create a 90 degree back side to it so that the top of the wall follows the yellow line or remove the 45 degree section so that the top of the wall follows the red line before following the yellow horizontal lines. I'm not sure if the 45 and 90 degree sections will provide more variety and interest or if the open canvas of inclined wall would allow more freedom to set. All opinions welcome, including alternative options that I did not mention. Thank you everyone. Always appreciate the community's input. JR
|
|
|
Post by Chris W on Dec 3, 2018 4:14:41 GMT -7
When I first built my wall in "the barn", the 35 degree wall had a roof section on the rafters (at 10 feet from the floor). I eventually took this down and continued to the peak at 35 degrees.
1) I found it easier to set limit problems and LBCs with my wall at a consistent angle. 2) I didn't want to hurt myself blowing off the roof, either statically or dynamically, at 10 feet from the floor 3) I rarely set anything that extends past that 10 foot mark anyway, to keep from hurting myself. My limit problems are between 3-5 hard, savage hand moves.
|
|
|
Post by firebug on Dec 3, 2018 7:02:14 GMT -7
Chris,
That has been my experience as well. Most routes top out with one or two moves on the horizontal roof. People, my self included, don't enjoy climbing horizontally 3 meters above the ground a few hours from the nearest hospital. Also, because the roof was only about a meter wide, there is almost always a hand hold you can use as a foot, thereby negating the pure roof. So the roof is coming off. My remaining question is whether to save the 45 degree section as I did wind up using that on many routes both as a pure steeper wall as well as a side grab with the left hand for routes running over and to the right of the volume. I'm leaning towards leaving it.
JR
|
|
|
Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 3, 2018 9:26:41 GMT -7
I would get rid of the 45 deg section. IMO, you want your walls to be as homogeneous as possible. Any distinct characteristics will seem fun and novel at first, but eventually will force all the problems in that section to climb the same way, resulting in boring problems.
|
|