Post by jetjackson on Nov 26, 2018 4:13:48 GMT -7
I thought I'd start a thread here because I thought Boer's thread was cool, and I'm throwing more at this route than I have any other route to date, in terms of training, strategy, and mental time. The route is called Touchstone Pictures, a 3 star classic 5.13a (28) at the Grampians, that is on the 'life-list' of many a climber here. It combines slab, overhang, dihedral and a touch of arete with some stand-out 3d features on an otherwise blank wall making for a pretty aesthetic route. As a project, and as a first 5.13a, it appeals to me for a few reasons - short approach, possible to climb in the shade in summer, and the hardest crux is at the start. Additionally, it's a longer route, and all my other 'first's at the grade' have been short 30-50 foot power routes.
I had heard that the start was nails, and that if you could get the starting boulder problem, the route was probably doable. 2 months ago I hopped on the start moves and managed to get the moves after a half dozen attempts, albeit using a beta that's not this traditional high foot move that is done. I figured it might be doable for me, and so left it for a few months to go back to training, with an aim to get on this Nov/Dec riding into my performance peak.
Training away hard, things were going well and I was getting psyched for the route, but researching it, I found out that there were a few chipped holds on the route. Mike Law apparently came and chipped a few holds in for a traverse into mid Touchstone Pictures from the adjoining route and called it 'Dive Dive Dive' - no longer in the guidebook... back when the start boulder problem must have seemed impossible. Then along came the FA, Glenn Tempest, who 'skipped these holds' and blasted up to the 'brains' - the prominent hangboard looking feature at the start, and did the route. This bothered me a bit - was my alternate beta using the chipped holds, and therefore not a go-er? I sent a phone video I had to Glenn Tempest, and asked for his thoughts. His response wasn't that helpful though, as he did it 29 years ago in 1989, and cannot remember the beta. I posted my thoughts about it on thecrag.com, and a local hardman came back and assured me that those holds (which definitely show signs of chisel marks) are indeed on. So I'm at least happy with that part of it.
The route itself is around 80 foot long with a ~V7 boulder problem at the start, to a reasonable rest at 'the brains'. Then some fantastic climbing, around 5.11 moves to another reasonable rest, followed by a V4, into a still tricky 15 foot run-out that ends with a no hands, but uncomfortable rest where you are on your toes with your face pushed into a dihedral. It's then technical climbing up the dihedral which flows out onto an arete, all with pretty delicate footwork.
Last weekend was my first single session on it as I transitioned from power training, into power endurance. With the run-outs giving me sweaty hands to just think about a couple of weeks ago, I decided I'd just follow my mate who had already done it a couple of times with another climber. He's also projecting it at the moment, and it's great to have someone to work it with. On my first burn, I dogged my way up, pulling through some of the moves, and I felt completely intimidated by it. I came down thinking it might not be possible for me, but committed to following through on the projecting process and gave it another shot on follow.
Second shot, I at least got all the moves up the top while dogging, but actually doing the moves and not pulling through. Still with no idea on how it would come together once I threw in the starting crux though. At the end of that session I threw a few burns in on the start problem just to get psyched on that part again. I had actually pulled through that on both my follows, on account of it being a skin burning, pulley tweaking, monster of a gaston move. I couldn't get the starting crux, and burnt through a fair bit of skin trying. Going home I felt a bit dejected, I had done all the moves, but not on the pointy end. I've been motivating myself by committing to approaching the project in small steps - just do this move, link these two bits, this weekend... once that is done, worry about the next bit. Im also motivating myself with the thoughts of, as I recall, Jerry Moffat talking about how if it didn't seem impossible, it wouldn't be exciting. Also, my success with working hard boulder problems earlier in the year has taught me that minor changes in beta can make moves seem a lot easier.
This weekend I went back and got two days on the route, or at least half days. The route is in the sun in the morning, and when it's not, there is mist and it's how we would describe as 'spoogy'. I didn't have my mate Nate to rope gun, so I stick clipped past the starting crux, and led the mid sequence to the second crux. The moves all went on lead, and I lowered and ran through that mid section of the route a few times to find some of the beta refinements, and just build up some more confidence on the route. I worked the second crux a bit, falling before really getting too far above the bolt on the run out section. The next day I did the same, leading the mid section a few times but unwilling to really push out the run out. When when Nate turned up and rope gunned to the top, I decided to have a crack at following from the start. I also needed to clean my draws off. I did the starting boulder problem all the way to the second crux clean, while cleaning the draws.
I came out of last weekend pretty stoked. Still, a few things remain on the list as I see it, before I will attempt an RP burn. First is a few beta refinements. I'm not being decisive on some foot positions and beta, and fiddling with them mid route - wasting energy - I need to be more decisive about it. I also need to put more work into the second crux and the top section and really have them dialed. Part of the issue with this, is rope drag across the arete at the top of the route doesn't make it ideal for working the top section off TR on the chains. That comes back to my hesitance on leading the top section, which is pretty much 2 bolts in almost 40 feet...
This time last year I took a big whipper and lost about 3 months of prime climbing to a back injury - rockprodigytraining.proboards.com/thread/1423/strained-back-on-foot-whipper Then, this year I also stuck my finger in a blender, and lost the fall (or autumn as we call it ) season to a finger injury. I'm also in that life stage where we're talking about having children, and I think the Autumn season (that's your Spring) this coming 2019, is maybe my last season without children. As a result, I'm pretty paranoid about the prospect of injury - I don't want to lose another 3 months of prime time to injury. I'm staring down the run-out on this route, and wondering if I really want to risk another back injury, or broken ankle. I've contemplated using an 8 foot sling to extend the draw through that section and eliminate any large fall potential, but then that take me back to the start of this post, where I talked about the style of the route, and I haven't decided exactly how I feel about extending that draw out. Certainly some here in Victoria, Aus, will call me out for it. Perhaps I'm missing some of the experience if I don't do the run-out?
Nate an I are headed back out this weekend. He came very close today on the route, leading from the start to the second crux. He thinks he came off because of a mental block / fear of doing the run out while very pumped. He's thinking to just progressively take bigger whips off that section until he's taking them almost from the bolting stance above. It might be helpful for me to do the same.
youtu.be/NH6qACFKouk - my beta video that I've put together to keep studying for next weekend. Is a mix of myself and Nate doing most of the moves on the route.
I had heard that the start was nails, and that if you could get the starting boulder problem, the route was probably doable. 2 months ago I hopped on the start moves and managed to get the moves after a half dozen attempts, albeit using a beta that's not this traditional high foot move that is done. I figured it might be doable for me, and so left it for a few months to go back to training, with an aim to get on this Nov/Dec riding into my performance peak.
Training away hard, things were going well and I was getting psyched for the route, but researching it, I found out that there were a few chipped holds on the route. Mike Law apparently came and chipped a few holds in for a traverse into mid Touchstone Pictures from the adjoining route and called it 'Dive Dive Dive' - no longer in the guidebook... back when the start boulder problem must have seemed impossible. Then along came the FA, Glenn Tempest, who 'skipped these holds' and blasted up to the 'brains' - the prominent hangboard looking feature at the start, and did the route. This bothered me a bit - was my alternate beta using the chipped holds, and therefore not a go-er? I sent a phone video I had to Glenn Tempest, and asked for his thoughts. His response wasn't that helpful though, as he did it 29 years ago in 1989, and cannot remember the beta. I posted my thoughts about it on thecrag.com, and a local hardman came back and assured me that those holds (which definitely show signs of chisel marks) are indeed on. So I'm at least happy with that part of it.
The route itself is around 80 foot long with a ~V7 boulder problem at the start, to a reasonable rest at 'the brains'. Then some fantastic climbing, around 5.11 moves to another reasonable rest, followed by a V4, into a still tricky 15 foot run-out that ends with a no hands, but uncomfortable rest where you are on your toes with your face pushed into a dihedral. It's then technical climbing up the dihedral which flows out onto an arete, all with pretty delicate footwork.
Last weekend was my first single session on it as I transitioned from power training, into power endurance. With the run-outs giving me sweaty hands to just think about a couple of weeks ago, I decided I'd just follow my mate who had already done it a couple of times with another climber. He's also projecting it at the moment, and it's great to have someone to work it with. On my first burn, I dogged my way up, pulling through some of the moves, and I felt completely intimidated by it. I came down thinking it might not be possible for me, but committed to following through on the projecting process and gave it another shot on follow.
Second shot, I at least got all the moves up the top while dogging, but actually doing the moves and not pulling through. Still with no idea on how it would come together once I threw in the starting crux though. At the end of that session I threw a few burns in on the start problem just to get psyched on that part again. I had actually pulled through that on both my follows, on account of it being a skin burning, pulley tweaking, monster of a gaston move. I couldn't get the starting crux, and burnt through a fair bit of skin trying. Going home I felt a bit dejected, I had done all the moves, but not on the pointy end. I've been motivating myself by committing to approaching the project in small steps - just do this move, link these two bits, this weekend... once that is done, worry about the next bit. Im also motivating myself with the thoughts of, as I recall, Jerry Moffat talking about how if it didn't seem impossible, it wouldn't be exciting. Also, my success with working hard boulder problems earlier in the year has taught me that minor changes in beta can make moves seem a lot easier.
This weekend I went back and got two days on the route, or at least half days. The route is in the sun in the morning, and when it's not, there is mist and it's how we would describe as 'spoogy'. I didn't have my mate Nate to rope gun, so I stick clipped past the starting crux, and led the mid sequence to the second crux. The moves all went on lead, and I lowered and ran through that mid section of the route a few times to find some of the beta refinements, and just build up some more confidence on the route. I worked the second crux a bit, falling before really getting too far above the bolt on the run out section. The next day I did the same, leading the mid section a few times but unwilling to really push out the run out. When when Nate turned up and rope gunned to the top, I decided to have a crack at following from the start. I also needed to clean my draws off. I did the starting boulder problem all the way to the second crux clean, while cleaning the draws.
I came out of last weekend pretty stoked. Still, a few things remain on the list as I see it, before I will attempt an RP burn. First is a few beta refinements. I'm not being decisive on some foot positions and beta, and fiddling with them mid route - wasting energy - I need to be more decisive about it. I also need to put more work into the second crux and the top section and really have them dialed. Part of the issue with this, is rope drag across the arete at the top of the route doesn't make it ideal for working the top section off TR on the chains. That comes back to my hesitance on leading the top section, which is pretty much 2 bolts in almost 40 feet...
This time last year I took a big whipper and lost about 3 months of prime climbing to a back injury - rockprodigytraining.proboards.com/thread/1423/strained-back-on-foot-whipper Then, this year I also stuck my finger in a blender, and lost the fall (or autumn as we call it ) season to a finger injury. I'm also in that life stage where we're talking about having children, and I think the Autumn season (that's your Spring) this coming 2019, is maybe my last season without children. As a result, I'm pretty paranoid about the prospect of injury - I don't want to lose another 3 months of prime time to injury. I'm staring down the run-out on this route, and wondering if I really want to risk another back injury, or broken ankle. I've contemplated using an 8 foot sling to extend the draw through that section and eliminate any large fall potential, but then that take me back to the start of this post, where I talked about the style of the route, and I haven't decided exactly how I feel about extending that draw out. Certainly some here in Victoria, Aus, will call me out for it. Perhaps I'm missing some of the experience if I don't do the run-out?
Nate an I are headed back out this weekend. He came very close today on the route, leading from the start to the second crux. He thinks he came off because of a mental block / fear of doing the run out while very pumped. He's thinking to just progressively take bigger whips off that section until he's taking them almost from the bolting stance above. It might be helpful for me to do the same.
youtu.be/NH6qACFKouk - my beta video that I've put together to keep studying for next weekend. Is a mix of myself and Nate doing most of the moves on the route.