jcun
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Post by jcun on Sept 14, 2018 10:53:10 GMT -7
I've been projecting this climb called tight and light(rated as v6, although I think it's height dependent, feels more like a 7 to me) on mount woodson california. The approach takes about 50 min. 20 on the fire road which is a paved road and then another 30 min of bushwacking/scrambling deep into the trees and boulders where there is no trail.
If there are no warm up climbs around, how do you all typically warm up for the climb?
I typically feel pretty warmed up from the hiking alone as you gain hundreds of feet of elevation in the first 20 min alone. My fingers won't be warmed up yet. When I reach the climb I'll do some light pulling on the holds with my feet on the ground. Maybe some split second hangs as well.
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Post by scojo on Sept 14, 2018 12:37:54 GMT -7
Usually I only need to warm up my fingers. If you have dodgy shoulders or something, you may need to do a more extensive warm-up.
As for fingers, I do something similar to you. Usually I'll pull on various holds on the boulder problem/nearby boulders with my feet on. Then I'll take a variety of holds and actually pull off the ground - maybe do some pullups on them. I try to use a variety of different hold types if they're available. If I don't feel quite ready for the crux moves of my project, then I'll warm up by doing some of the easier moves on the project.
Another option is to bring a portable hangboard. You can hang it from a tree or just stick a foot in the cord and pull on it. Start light and ramp up the intensity until your fingers feel ready.
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Post by erick on Sept 14, 2018 16:19:07 GMT -7
Another option is to bring a portable hangboard. You can hang it from a tree or just stick a foot in the cord and pull on it. Start light and ramp up the intensity until your fingers feel ready. This is your best best. Things like the Tension Flash Board were created specifically for this purpose. I have been able to be really creative with mine to load my arms and shoulders in ways that help them warm up as well. Otherwise I would just to fangs on the holds you can reach at the start and work up to something like 10 to 15 seconds on and 10 seconds of for several reps, that should help. Eric |
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Post by Chris W on Sept 14, 2018 17:48:18 GMT -7
I do something similar to that if I don't have some warm ups around. |
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jcun
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Post by jcun on Sept 15, 2018 9:32:04 GMT -7
Cool, luckily this current project is just a traverse. I need to get a tension flash board and maybe try that technique of using my foot on the cord for resistance. Thanks for the input guys!
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Post by hajekmarek on Sept 17, 2018 10:29:21 GMT -7
How far is a gym or the nearest climbing area where you could warm up? Because good warm ups are not readily available in one of out climbing areas, I sometimes warm up in a climbing gym even though it then takes me an hour to get to the routes I want to climb. It takes very little effort to re-warm up at that point. I don't know what other people do, but it takes me at least 45 minutes to warm up properly. This includes various exercises to warm up upper and lower body, then, progressively bouldering up to project level. It's not just about warming up the muscles, ligaments, tendons, etc. It's important to warm up the neuro-muscular pathways as well.
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jcun
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Post by jcun on Sept 21, 2018 10:58:29 GMT -7
How far is a gym or the nearest climbing area where you could warm up? Because good warm ups are not readily available in one of out climbing areas, I sometimes warm up in a climbing gym even though it then takes me an hour to get to the routes I want to climb. It takes very little effort to re-warm up at that point. I don't know what other people do, but it takes me at least 45 minutes to warm up properly. This includes various exercises to warm up upper and lower body, then, progressively bouldering up to project level. It's not just about warming up the muscles, ligaments, tendons, etc. It's important to warm up the neuro-muscular pathways as well. You know what! There is a gym which is about 20-30 from the trail head, but then it would take me another 50 min to get to my project, but this is better than not warming up at all you think? I'll try this in about three weeks once i'm done with this power cycle. I'm starting my first campus sesh of this cycle and was wondering if I should arc or just WBL warmup bouldering ladder? Maybe i'll do a light 10 min arc. I've been arcing before all HB workouts and hopefully it will pay off in my bouldering endurance. |
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Post by suprcrmpr on Oct 2, 2018 1:15:32 GMT -7
I have a theraband in my pack for warming up shoulders.
Some pushups.
if there is nothing easy around I do some deadhangs from a crimp, edge or whatever and some pull ups on the rock.
I also spent 20 minutes making a portable hangboard from scrap wood which works amazing. Bring some static cord for hanging from trees, rocks or something.
It's something I don't carry with me everywhere but rather if I know the project has no warm ups around.
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jcun
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Posts: 26
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Post by jcun on Oct 26, 2018 11:45:50 GMT -7
I really need to make a portable hangboard, I forgot that the gym that is 20-30 min away doesn't open til 9 am which by then will be 69 degrees, bah, why is it still so hot in so cal.
I think I may have to hang board at home a little bit to warm up the fingers and just do some hangs on the crimps of the climb.
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Post by jlarson on Oct 28, 2018 22:16:25 GMT -7
Woodson is littered with boulders to warm up on, why not lap Red Stagger and Chameleon a couple times on the way up to Tight and Light?
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