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Post by erick on Sept 10, 2018 7:33:48 GMT -7
I am still at the beginning of my 5.13 progression. I have climbed two 13a routes so far (both at Smith) and as I look forward to climbing more in the future I am looking for suggestions from you all. I know what I'm good at (vertical to slightly overhanging crimp ladders) but I like routes which work my weakness as well. Feel free to suggest anything but ideally the routes would be...
In the western USA (the closer to WA the better)
Sport climbs only for now
12c-13d
Diverse in style and length
So does anyone want to help me make a list of goal routes to keep me from being a one trick pony?
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Post by jcm on Sept 10, 2018 17:22:06 GMT -7
Here's a list of 10 routes for the WA-based sport climber, 12d-13a. Intent is to experience the full variety of crags and rock types in the region, and broaden your skillset within your upper grade range, rather than pushing a higher grade within your comfort zone. So it is less of a progression list and more of a diversification list. All are top-quality. I've deliberately omitted everything at Smith, since I assume you already know what routes you want to do there.
1. Californication, 13a, Little Si - Long endurance route, high in the grade. Boulder problems seperated by big jugs rests, over and over again, for 35 meters. Links Californicator (12d) into Technoriginie (12c). The individual components are also quite good.
2. Propaganda, 12c/d, Little Si. Techy bottom half and athletic top half. Also serves as the start to Black Ice (13b/c), which may be the best sport climb in Washington and deserves to be on your longer-term goal list.
3. The Eighth Rule, 13a, Fire Wall, Mazama - Continuous climbing with varied moves on limestone-esque rock. Moderately overhanging. Unique rock and climbing for Washington.
4. Groovin in the Woods, 13a/b (gets called 13b but it isn't), Equinox - Links Artifact (12+) and Groove Tube (12+/13-). Both are worthy routes in their own right, but the linkup is the best route. Power endurance.
5. Welcome to Washington, 13a, Miller High Life - Granite compression. Bouldery.
6. Jesus Save the Pushers, 13a, Horne Lake - Endurance jug hauling and kneebarring out a big limestone cave.
7. Vorpal Sword, 12d, Murrin, Squamish - Thin granite edging masterpiece.
8. Mr. Negative, 12d, Chek, Squamish - Short, steep, bouldery, and powerful. Great moves.
9. Air Test, 13a, Skaha - 40 meter endurance odyssey.
10. 12-Step Derailer, 13a, Skaha - I had to put one "gimme" 13a for you on this list. Vertical crimping on smooth gneiss. Good route, low in the grade and in your style.
Bonus: 3 5.12b sandbags at Index:
Despite its reputation as a trad crag, Index has some of the best hard sport climbing in Washington. And the grades generally don't make any sense. Don't let this distract you; the climbing is incredible, and varied. Here are 3 classic "12b" sport climbs. Actual difficulty is more comparable to the ~12d-13a routes on this list.
11. The Fifth Force, "12b", The Country, Index - A series of interesting, technical granite boulder problems seperated by small no-hands stances. Go during cold conditions.
12. Numbah Ten, "12b", Lower Town Wall, Index. The stemming crux at the second/third bolt of this route has the hardest single move of any route on the list. Crimp strength will do nothing for you; here you climb with your palms. The rest of the route above is more reasonable, but top-quality.
13. Normandy, "12b", The Beach, Index - Steep and thuggy, with a bit of Index funk mixed in. Lots of squeezing and pressing on rounded features. Awesome view from this wall- and airy perch high above the valley.
Double Bonus: Visit Viento or Deep Creek, climb some steep blocky basalt, and tell me what the good routes are there. I haven't been to either of those places.
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Post by erick on Sept 10, 2018 21:20:47 GMT -7
JCM this is Perfect! Many of these are already on my list, I just need to find the time to try them. Let me know if you ever need a partner for any of your own projects at these areas. I have been to deep creek once for a couple hours and I had a great time.
Anyone want to offer up any other suggestions from other areas?
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Post by jetjackson on Sept 11, 2018 17:34:02 GMT -7
That's awesome.
We don't really have this in the Grampians for Sport Climbing, but we do have it in the bouldering guidebook for the area.
The way they do it is
Degree in Crimps
Masters in Crimps
Phd in Crimps
Then 3 levels for Slopers/Dynos/Slab etc.
- They have I think 5-10 problems in each level. If you want to work a particular technique that is a weakness through bouldering - it's a really good way to approach it.
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