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Post by khutch28 on Aug 14, 2018 16:37:14 GMT -7
Question for those with home boards. I want to build a home board but can't decide on the angle. I would like to use the board for limit bouldering and Circuits (4x4s). I have access to a gym for ARC. The gym I go to frequently resets the bouldering area and the setting tends to not align with outdoor climbing. I just sent my first 12C this spring and I'm training for a specific 12D this fall.
I have room for a single 8ft wide board in my garage. Ceiling is 9'4" however if I remove the drywall and go in-between the rafters I should be able to get 10'6". I was originally thinking of doing that to fit a moonboard. I like the idea of having a ton of problems on the app. I've never set before so I don't really know how to purchase a good amount of holds for a spray wall. I would get set A and B and fill in the rest with jugs or easier holds to warm-up on.
The issue is that I don't climb outside on 40 degrees very much. Most projects are 10 to 15 degrees or less. I know the MB would make me stronger. However, would it be a better benefit to my climbing to just have a single board around 25 degrees or less with less climb-able length and use smaller holds/pockets?
What would you recommend?
Thanks!
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Post by Chris W on Aug 14, 2018 18:32:10 GMT -7
The primary angle at my home crag is about 10-15 degrees. Almost all of my limit problems are on my 35 degree wall. It's getting a little hard to set limit problems on my 15 degree wall without using holds that are microscopic and sharp, which are hard to find in and of themselves. It's a compromise. My power and PE on my 35 wall had really helped me on my projects at home. I talked with Mark about it somewhere on the forum, but the conversation is probably a bit lost in the shuffle.
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mclay
Junior Member
Posts: 96 
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Post by mclay on Aug 15, 2018 8:27:44 GMT -7
I just finished my full-size Moonboard this week. I went ahead and set it at 40 degrees and I have Sets A & B and a bunch of jugs. I knew this would be limiting, but my hope was that it will push my to rise to that level of climbing more quickly. Right now it is pretty much killing me though. I'm not climbing 5.12 either though. I had almost unlimited space though as I built is in my barn; not sure how an adjustable angle would work with your height restrictions. I wish I would have gone adjustable angle, but I've done that before with mixed results (due to my carpentry skills!), and I wanted the simplicity of the Moonboard design.
Finally, the app was the deciding factor for me. I feel like I've regressed and I totally suck at climbing right now, but being able to see the problems, read others comments and see their progress is very motivating.
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Post by jetjackson on Aug 16, 2018 3:37:46 GMT -7
I've got a similar height and built a 40 degree, from a sitting start I get about 3-4 moves in a straight line before I top out. If I went with 30 degree or less it would be even more limited. I barely climb on 40 degrees outdoors, but I think I still get heaps out of the board.
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Post by khutch28 on Aug 16, 2018 10:16:30 GMT -7
Thanks for the feedback! Unfortunately I don't have the space for an adjustable wall since I will likely be extending the board between rafters. I was leaning towards the 40 degree to maximize climbable length as well as using the moon board system/app for a ton of problems. I'm glad to hear that others have found success with the setup while climbing less steep outside.
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Post by jetjackson on Aug 16, 2018 15:10:57 GMT -7
Yeah keep in mind the Moonboard requires 13 feet of clearance. You could probably get by with maybe as little as 12 and a bit if you pushed up the bottom kicker panel, however any denser than that, and you would need to alter the spacing of the holds on the board, which effectively changes the problems and IMO would ruin the point of the moonboard.
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Post by erick on Aug 17, 2018 8:18:29 GMT -7
The Tension Board is designed to be usable without the kick board to save some space.
I have 10' 6" ceiling and on my 20* I get about two full length moves to the top. So even though it may not represent your current climbing, with your size restrictions I would not go any less than 30* otherwise you will be doing a lot of traversing.
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Post by khutch28 on Aug 17, 2018 9:24:59 GMT -7
Yeah keep in mind the Moonboard requires 13 feet of clearance. You could probably get by with maybe as little as 12 and a bit if you pushed up the bottom kicker panel, however any denser than that, and you would need to alter the spacing of the holds on the board, which effectively changes the problems and IMO would ruin the point of the moonboard. Is this with the new 25 degree setup? I was thinking of the original 40 degree setup that says the maximum height with the full size kicker is 3.15 m or 10' 4". I agree I want the standard kickboard, hold spacing and angle. www.moonboard.com/Content/Information/How-to-build-a-MoonBoard.pdf |
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Post by khutch28 on Aug 17, 2018 9:31:59 GMT -7
The Tension board definitely crossed my mind. I really like the systematic set up and the foot hold option they have with their problems. I think it would fit in the space. The issue for me is the price tag right now. I don't know if I can justify the cost of the Tension board... Let's say the frame cost/t-nuts are all the same. The 3 sets of holds are 3,133 for the tension board and MB 3 sets is 975. Granted it's not as many holds but even filling out the rest would likely come in for below 60% of hold cost.
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Post by jetjackson on Aug 17, 2018 19:45:42 GMT -7
Yeah keep in mind the Moonboard requires 13 feet of clearance. You could probably get by with maybe as little as 12 and a bit if you pushed up the bottom kicker panel, however any denser than that, and you would need to alter the spacing of the holds on the board, which effectively changes the problems and IMO would ruin the point of the moonboard. Is this with the new 25 degree setup? I was thinking of the original 40 degree setup that says the maximum height with the full size kicker is 3.15 m or 10' 4". I agree I want the standard kickboard, hold spacing and angle. www.moonboard.com/Content/Information/How-to-build-a-MoonBoard.pdfSorry, my bad, I think I was thinking of the freestanding 40, and even then I got the conversion wrong. You can have enough room for the moonboard with 10'6 - I'd definitely do that - having the ability to climb problems set by a range of different climbers is absolutely invaluable IMO. |
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