Post by jetjackson on Apr 11, 2018 20:19:59 GMT -7
I've got a cough at the moment, and umming and ahhing about whether I should train or not - don't want to make it worse. While I was conducting an internet search aimed at confirmation bias that would convince me that it's okay to train , I found this article that discussed resting heart as a measure of whether or not you should return to training. It refers to Dr. Mark Wotherspoon with the English Institute of Sport who recommends that a RHR >10 bpm above normal, would be an indication not to train.
That led me down the rabbit hole - it seems that there is some suggestion out there that RHR could be useful as one data point when determining if you have recovered, or put another way, whether you are ready to train again. There is this article that refers to a "Daniel Plews" who has done research on the topic. I found plenty of other blogs etc. that discussed it - but they all seem to be in cycling, running and swimming endurance sports, where the cardio system is more significant to performance.
That begs the question - is this even relevant for performance climbers? Would a hangboard session even have an impact on RHR, would you see a regular increase in RHR in days after hangboarding sessions? I think I might try and get in the habit of recording my resting heart rate and see what I observe at least. Then there is also the question of relevance - cardio is never usually the limiting factor when determining recovery from last training session for a climber - it's usually a determination of whether the muscles/tendons etc. have recovered sufficiently, and I don't know if that recovery is linked to RHR - would need to dig deeper on that.
Digging even deeper, there is also this measure of Heart Rate Variability - and reading this article it says research shows a link between weightlifting recovery and HRV. There is also this blog post here on an app website that measures HRV and the post is specific to strength and power athletes - they are selling the app, and what they say seems to somewhat mirror the other article. There is some interesting information on their site with athletes contributing HRV data and how illness, less sleep or having a glass of wine affects their HRV.
All these measurements though, require measuring for the individual, to give you an idea of how you are performing vs your baseline. At the very least it looks like HRV and RHR could be useful to record over time as indicators of how your body is coping with training and overall life stressors. It's $30 for a 6 month subscription to the HRV4Training app - might be worth checking out and running an entire cycle and see what kind of data I get.
Anyone here measuring these at all?
That led me down the rabbit hole - it seems that there is some suggestion out there that RHR could be useful as one data point when determining if you have recovered, or put another way, whether you are ready to train again. There is this article that refers to a "Daniel Plews" who has done research on the topic. I found plenty of other blogs etc. that discussed it - but they all seem to be in cycling, running and swimming endurance sports, where the cardio system is more significant to performance.
That begs the question - is this even relevant for performance climbers? Would a hangboard session even have an impact on RHR, would you see a regular increase in RHR in days after hangboarding sessions? I think I might try and get in the habit of recording my resting heart rate and see what I observe at least. Then there is also the question of relevance - cardio is never usually the limiting factor when determining recovery from last training session for a climber - it's usually a determination of whether the muscles/tendons etc. have recovered sufficiently, and I don't know if that recovery is linked to RHR - would need to dig deeper on that.
Digging even deeper, there is also this measure of Heart Rate Variability - and reading this article it says research shows a link between weightlifting recovery and HRV. There is also this blog post here on an app website that measures HRV and the post is specific to strength and power athletes - they are selling the app, and what they say seems to somewhat mirror the other article. There is some interesting information on their site with athletes contributing HRV data and how illness, less sleep or having a glass of wine affects their HRV.
All these measurements though, require measuring for the individual, to give you an idea of how you are performing vs your baseline. At the very least it looks like HRV and RHR could be useful to record over time as indicators of how your body is coping with training and overall life stressors. It's $30 for a 6 month subscription to the HRV4Training app - might be worth checking out and running an entire cycle and see what kind of data I get.
Anyone here measuring these at all?