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Post by jrblack on Mar 22, 2018 16:45:38 GMT -7
I've been ARCing for up to 15mins on big holds at 2-3 degrees overhanging and it's becoming too easy. What's the best way to up the difficulty a little - Increase duration?
- Start using smaller holds?
- Increase angle of wall?
So far I've just been increasing duration, but the wall I use can change angles and has a lot of smaller holds that I don't often use, so there are options.
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Post by tetrault on Mar 22, 2018 19:13:11 GMT -7
Do you want to increase your practice time on smaller holds or on steeper walls?
Also, supposedly, the 20+ minute range is better for stimulating physiological gains.
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Post by brendann on Mar 22, 2018 19:14:49 GMT -7
Depends on your goals.
Do you want to last longer on steep Red River Gorge routes? Increase angle.
Do you want to hang out on vert climbing fiddling with gear? Decrease hold size.
Do you want to climb 80m Spanish limestone? Increase duration.
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Post by scojo on Mar 23, 2018 9:47:48 GMT -7
Do you want to increase your practice time on smaller holds or on steeper walls? Also, supposedly, the 20+ minute range is better for stimulating physiological gains. Do you mean 20+ minutes of total time on the wall? Or 20+ minutes per set? I figured more total time on the wall should stimulate larger gains (to a point of diminishing returns), but that it shouldn't matter too much how you split up that time. |
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Post by stanleybaker on Mar 23, 2018 10:36:33 GMT -7
I think in the book it says less than 20 minutes per set doesn't give you the right amount of pump (forget the term he uses). So you could do 60 minutes however you like as long as they're not less than 20 min/set. So 20/20/20, or 20/40, or 30/30, but not 10/10/10/10/10/10.
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Post by jrblack on Mar 23, 2018 18:18:18 GMT -7
The "Book" definitely says 20 mins minimum and I'm doing 15 now, so I guess I should up my set duration. Today I increased the angle but it meant I could only go 10 mins... and it made the jug rash worse (because I had to grab the biggest holds).
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Post by scojo on Mar 23, 2018 18:29:44 GMT -7
The "Book" definitely says 20 mins minimum and I'm doing 15 now, so I guess I should up my set duration. Today I increased the angle but it meant I could only go 10 mins... and it made the jug rash worse (because I had to grab the biggest holds). I would keep the angle the same then and use smaller holds/different styles of holds to avoid the jug rash. |
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Post by aikibujin on Mar 23, 2018 19:05:53 GMT -7
I've been ARCing for up to 15mins on big holds at 2-3 degrees overhanging and it's becoming too easy. What's the best way to up the difficulty a little - Increase duration?
- Start using smaller holds?
- Increase angle of wall?
So far I've just been increasing duration, but the wall I use can change angles and has a lot of smaller holds that I don't often use, so there are options.My
My opinion is that you should change all three variables, but not at the same time. While I agree that it's valuable to train on terrain that matches your goal, but I don't think you should pigeonhole into just one style when ARC'ing (crimpy vertical vs. juggy overhang), especially since it's meant to build your base. My experience has been that endurance on crimpy vertical stuff doesn't necessarily transfer very well to juggy overhangs, and vise versa. Even at a place like Clear Creek where routes tend to be crimpy and vertical, you can still encounter some juggy overhangs like my "former" project. So IMO it's better to cover a bunch of different angles and holds when you're building your base, that will help you climb a bunch of different routes. You can then hone in on the style that matches your goal when you switch to train power endurance. To me, the duration is the easiest to control and fine tune, then it's the angle, and finally the hold size (difficulty). When going to smaller holds it's too easy to go overboard and push the intensity too high. If I'm in your shoes and able to control all three variables, I would spend 4 ARC sessions increasing the duration by 5 minutes every session. On the 5th session I'll increase the angle by 10 degrees but go back to 15 mins, then slowly increase the duration again over the next 4 sessions. On the 9th session I'll go back to the slight overhang and 15 mins session, but use a set of smaller holds, and then increase the duration again over the next 4 sessions. Adjust the progression if a session feels too easy or too hard. |
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Post by jrblack on Mar 27, 2018 12:04:12 GMT -7
If I'm in your shoes and able to control all three variables, I would spend 4 ARC sessions increasing the duration by 5 minutes every session. On the 5th session I'll increase the angle by 10 degrees but go back to 15 mins, then slowly increase the duration again over the next 4 sessions. On the 9th session I'll go back to the slight overhang and 15 mins session, but use a set of smaller holds, and then increase the duration again over the next 4 sessions. Adjust the progression if a session feels too easy or too hard. The thing that really caught my eye here was "increase angle by 10 degrees". That's a huge increase for me: I started ARCing at 0 degrees, then went to 5 degrees over and it was much much harder. So I ended up at 2 degrees, then 4 degrees... I can't imagine staying on for long at 10 degrees even on the bigger holds... Just shows how weak I am relative to good climbers.  I keep expecting one day I'll wake up and be "strong" because I train soooo much. But still waiting for that day... |
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Post by aikibujin on Mar 27, 2018 14:22:55 GMT -7
The thing that really caught my eye here was "increase angle by 10 degrees". That's a huge increase for me: I started ARCing at 0 degrees, then went to 5 degrees over and it was much much harder. So I ended up at 2 degrees, then 4 degrees... I can't imagine staying on for long at 10 degrees even on the bigger holds... Just shows how weak I am relative to good climbers. Since I don't have an adjustable angle wall, I was just throwing numbers out there. I did say "adjust progression if too hard or too easy". The actual number is not important, the idea is to gradually increase the difficulty of your sessions over time by changing one variable at a time. You can increase the angle by 5 degrees, or 2 degrees. You just have to try it and figure out what's right for you. |
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Post by tetrault on Mar 28, 2018 18:43:06 GMT -7
It's not a weakness, don't beat yourself up. When ARCing at angles near vertical, a 10 degree change is huge.
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