Base fitness phase - on importance of outdoor mileage

[RikkiTikkiT]

So I'm super excited about starting an RP -esque program (it will be my first time using the program and I'm stoked about writing out my own plan) but I have a question about the base fitness phase. 

Currently, I'm rehabbing a finger injury so I've been sort of stuck with doing laps with the auto belay (4x4s that are crazy easy in the sense that I'm not pulling any hard moves) and doing easy indoor bouldering (V0 to V3ish) mileage.  Plus, I'm doing a bit of light weightlifting.  I'm totally fine with this but I'm curious about how important doing outside climbing mileage is to this phase and if there are any suggestions for other activities.  

I'm going to be honest, I don't really like the bouldering around my area, esp with my finger and all that lovely humid spring weather we are having. AND it is a mega pain in the ass to get a lot of mileage on a rope outside here since there are no easy sport routes (only trad - which is SO time consuming). 

I mainly boulder anyway so... here I am.  

Suggestions? 

[erick]

Top roping trad climbs can be a great way to develop fitness and skill. While doing OM I usually, Lead once, TR for second go on the other end of the rope cleaning on the way up and putting in one or two redirects for the third lap on the way down. Then Lead again if I felt my first lead could be improved on. Otherwise I shoot for three laps per route I put up since leading long trad routes can be pretty time consuming. I tend to get a better skill benefit on trad laps since those type of climbs often work my weaknesses better.

But to answer your question, how important is it? It depends on your currently skill sets and weaknesses. 5 years ago mileage was THE most important part of my training, now it sits somewhere around the bottom with PE. But you have to be the judge, dont skip it just cause you don't like doing it, especially if you think you could find real gains in the area.

Eric

[MarkAnderson]

Agree with eric, it's all a question of how skilled you are. If climbing skill is a weakness, it's probably the most important thing you can do. If it's a strength, and your lead head is rock solid, then you don't need it at all.

[RikkiTikkiT]

Thanks guys! I'll see if I can wrangle up a patient partner. [fingers crossed]

[erick]

Two micro traxions and a rope solo works great!