Post by ernirulez on Nov 1, 2014 3:50:38 GMT -7
Hi there!
Last year I started hangboarding with my fingerboard. The thing is that I started to get better quickly. I was at 5.10c when I began and reached 5.11b/5.11c in around 2-3 months.
The problem is that I injured my ring finger when I was trying to push hard in a 5.12 route, and I had to stop hangboarding and also I had to climb only easy routes(5.10a). The injury was that my ring finger became inflamed every time I used it and it also hurt. I got really depressed at that time.
Since my finger is ok now, I wanted to start training hard again with a thorough plan so I spent some days on internet trying to find the "state of the art" in training for climbing, and after reading a lot, I decided to buy the RCTM
Of course it implies hangboarding again but I don´t want in any way to get it injured again.
I think that the reason I got my finger injured could be inappropriate warming up. So, how should I warm up? I don´t have (and I guess neither the majority of people) a gym nearby to go and then come back to hangboarding, so I used to run 20 minutes and around 2 sets of 8 pull ups in the 2 jugs for warming up.
I´m still waiting for my RCTM, and I really hope it also talks about what you should not do after a given Phase and not only what you should, cause this is what makes you injuries-prone. I also think that one of the reasons I got injured could be that the "hangboard" Phase lasted too much for me (I was not periodizing at that time, just like hangboarding forever), and as said a not proper warming up.
Thank you very much in advance. All this info is making a great change in our climbing lives
Last year I started hangboarding with my fingerboard. The thing is that I started to get better quickly. I was at 5.10c when I began and reached 5.11b/5.11c in around 2-3 months.
The problem is that I injured my ring finger when I was trying to push hard in a 5.12 route, and I had to stop hangboarding and also I had to climb only easy routes(5.10a). The injury was that my ring finger became inflamed every time I used it and it also hurt. I got really depressed at that time.
Since my finger is ok now, I wanted to start training hard again with a thorough plan so I spent some days on internet trying to find the "state of the art" in training for climbing, and after reading a lot, I decided to buy the RCTM
Of course it implies hangboarding again but I don´t want in any way to get it injured again.
I think that the reason I got my finger injured could be inappropriate warming up. So, how should I warm up? I don´t have (and I guess neither the majority of people) a gym nearby to go and then come back to hangboarding, so I used to run 20 minutes and around 2 sets of 8 pull ups in the 2 jugs for warming up.
I´m still waiting for my RCTM, and I really hope it also talks about what you should not do after a given Phase and not only what you should, cause this is what makes you injuries-prone. I also think that one of the reasons I got injured could be that the "hangboard" Phase lasted too much for me (I was not periodizing at that time, just like hangboarding forever), and as said a not proper warming up.
Thank you very much in advance. All this info is making a great change in our climbing lives