I was "sorta" injured... pushing too hard on the hangboard and left ring pip started to so south. I took 8 weeks off (completely off) and it's 100% fine now. I've climbed on it twice with no issues and I'm going to try and be smarter this time. Two things I've noticed coming back:
I lost a TON of fitness. I was bouldering V4/V5 before I stopped, and now V2 is hard again. I was ARCing 15 mins, now 5 mins is hard. How could I lose so much in 8 weeks? Is this common? Will it come back faster than the time I took to get there in the first place?
My skin hurts so much, even on the relatively-friend plastic in the gym. In 30 years of climbing, I cannot remember my finger skin (not tips, but the fingers themselves) burning so bad I had to quit. I assume this will ease with time... I mean, this has never happened before.
As usual, your insights, remarks, encouragement are always appreciated.
I would expect to lose a lot of fitness in 8 weeks of complete rest. ARCing for 5min sounds about right, but going from V4/5 to V2 seems a little too extreme.
I have never been able to climb on plastic for longer than two hours without the skin on my fingers and palm turn red and painful. I also don't climb on plastic very often, so I think it's normal if haven't touched plastic in 8 weeks.
A couple years ago I took a full 6 weeks off to recover from a hernia surgery. It will come back. The first couple of sessions will feel pretty crummy, but your body will "remember" what it needs to do. Granted, my surgical "injury" was a bit different, involving the core instead of the fingers, but I did an extra long ARC phase after my surgery to slowly prep my body for the coming season.
Thanks guys. Patience isn't my strong suit, but I want to stay healthy and come back slow, so I appreciate the level-headed advice.
As for V4/5 to V2, I guess I made it sound worse than it is. I was on-sighting V3 and projecting V4/5 when I was injured. On my comeback visit I was on-sighting V2 with difficulty, so I more-or-less dropped a single number.