Post by R Dubs on Oct 7, 2014 21:52:14 GMT -7
Hi everyone, just thought I'd toss this question out there in case anyone has had similar experiences in the past.
I've been climbing for 11 years, so definitely have a good amount of base fitness. I tried my first (poorly planned) hangboard cycle last year, and of course went on with it for like two months with outdoor climbing on the weekends. Needless to say that I ended up with some tweaks, most notably in my right wrist on the ulnar (pinky finger) side (though the left had some issues as well). I laid off for a while, and then started taping when I climbed. I noticed that it would aggravate the injury when I tried any palm-up exercises as well (bicep curls, hard underclings).
I laid off for a while, and did a bunch of reverse wrist curls, and it mostly fixed itself. However, I just started a (better thought out) hangboard cycle after ARCing for about 6 weeks, and now I JUST started my first cycle today, and with the first set of open handed hangs I noticed afterwards the left is now bothering me quite notably. I usually am super careful about climbing injuries and just stop climbing, but I'm no longer willing to do that, preferring to find intelligent ways to climb/train around the limitation. I switched to half crimps the rest of the workout and IMRs, which both seemed to be more or less fine for it (pinches not so much, so avoided them).
My question is twofold:
1) Has anyone experienced this type of injury? Any tips besides reverse wrist curls, dynaflex balls (impressively effective for wrist issues I've found) and rest?
2) Has anyone trained through an ulnar injury issue by avoiding painful holds (open hands involving the pinkie, slopers, and pinches)?
Thanks a bunch in advance, and thanks to the Anderson brothers for assembling such an awesome body of knowledge!
- Ryan
I've been climbing for 11 years, so definitely have a good amount of base fitness. I tried my first (poorly planned) hangboard cycle last year, and of course went on with it for like two months with outdoor climbing on the weekends. Needless to say that I ended up with some tweaks, most notably in my right wrist on the ulnar (pinky finger) side (though the left had some issues as well). I laid off for a while, and then started taping when I climbed. I noticed that it would aggravate the injury when I tried any palm-up exercises as well (bicep curls, hard underclings).
I laid off for a while, and did a bunch of reverse wrist curls, and it mostly fixed itself. However, I just started a (better thought out) hangboard cycle after ARCing for about 6 weeks, and now I JUST started my first cycle today, and with the first set of open handed hangs I noticed afterwards the left is now bothering me quite notably. I usually am super careful about climbing injuries and just stop climbing, but I'm no longer willing to do that, preferring to find intelligent ways to climb/train around the limitation. I switched to half crimps the rest of the workout and IMRs, which both seemed to be more or less fine for it (pinches not so much, so avoided them).
My question is twofold:
1) Has anyone experienced this type of injury? Any tips besides reverse wrist curls, dynaflex balls (impressively effective for wrist issues I've found) and rest?
2) Has anyone trained through an ulnar injury issue by avoiding painful holds (open hands involving the pinkie, slopers, and pinches)?
Thanks a bunch in advance, and thanks to the Anderson brothers for assembling such an awesome body of knowledge!
- Ryan