Power/finger strength maintenance during ARCing

[willblack]

I've always been surprised at how much my power declines after ARCing for a couple weeks. I know it comes back quickly, but it's still disconcerting to feel like I initially lose 3 years of strength gains after 3 weeks of ARCing. Has anyone experimented with devoting a couple hours a week to training strength or power while mostly ARCing? I'm thinking that maybe compusing or limit bouldering once a week before ARCing might lead to feeling like I have less of a hole to dig myself out of after a few weeks of ARCing.

[korduroy]

I found that happened to me - and i didnt like it one bit. Bouldering performance is important to me, as it is more available during winter months than sport/trad (New England). I like to be able to perform somewhat well when I boulder outside, even during a base fitness phase. I modified my ARC/base phase schedule to have usually one day a week of bouldering (sometimes heavy). I generally do this the day prior to ARCing.

My schedule typically looks like:
Monday – Power Bouldering and SE strength
Tuesday – ARC
Wednesday – rest/yoga
Thursday – ARC
Friday –
Saturday – ARC


I havent noticed a decline in my ARCing while doing this.

[korduroy]

sorry for the scattered response, i was writing it in sections while avoiding be caught at work

[tahmad]

Hi All -

I've had the same frustrations as willblack and am going to experiment with maintenance hangs this cycle. There is another thread on this with way more detail in the "strength" forum, where I asked a similar question.

Hope that helps!