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Post by Nate M on Dec 25, 2017 7:45:55 GMT -7
Hello Forumers,
I'm currently in graduate school in Fort Collins. I want to create a training plan for this Spring. My goal is to give a solid free attempt on either Father Time or Golden Gate.
I have two 8-week training times with a 1 week spring break.
I was thinking of following:
1. Base fitness 2 wks
2. Fingerboarding and outdoor milage 5 weeks
3. Power 1 week
4. Spring Break in Yosemite (backup plan stay local)
5. Fingerboarding and outdoor milage 2 weeks
6. Power 2 weeks
7. Power Endurance 2 weeks
8. Performace 2 weeks
9. Yosemite 2 weeks (most likely Golden Gate or Father Time not both)
Emphasis for my outdoor milage will be in Vedauwoo and the South Platte. For spring break I was planning on heading to Yosemite (weather permitting) to attempt the North American Wall to become familiar with multi-day El Capitan excursions.
Do you have any suggestions or recommendations for the training plan?
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Post by RobF on Dec 27, 2017 13:59:01 GMT -7
Looks a sound basic framework. A biphasic peaking programme gives chance to develop things twice and you can make programming adjustments based upon your responses 1st time round.
Have a think about which weeks you will be expecting the most fatigue and what strategies you are going to use to combat this. Also consider your nutrition and how you may vary this dependent upon your training phase.
When climbing in the valley you're most likely to be in massive negative energy balance on the days you are climbing. I've always gone for an optimal nutrition plan throughout the whole of the training phase but some would argue about slotting in occasional fasted training to keep things specific...
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Post by climbnkev on Dec 27, 2017 23:19:41 GMT -7
Hi, It looks like you have a few cool goal routes picked out but I think you would want to train for each in a different way. I'm also thinking Father Time is going to be a much harder objective than Golden Gate. My experience on El Cap has been that Strength and Endurance should be the attributes you train the most. Of course it's good to dial in your suffering skills as well. With your current plan I think you will have lost most of your finger strength gained in your HB phase by the time you hit the Valley. You may want to consider starting with a standard Strength and Power phase then switch to a Non-linear phase cycling HB, Bouldering, and at least one day of suffering a week. Good Luck.
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Post by Nate M on Jan 12, 2018 7:46:49 GMT -7
Thanks for all the help folks! I tweaked my program a little accordingly. I'm dong non-linear periodization focused on strength and power until spring break. Then I will switch to periodized training after spring break.
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