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Post by jrblack on Nov 7, 2017 15:03:26 GMT -7
I just did my first HB workout last night and it was very very hard. Much harder than I push when climbing, in fact. But it was a total 9 mins TUT. Now the prescription is 70 hours of rest! I'm not sore or tired today and normally I would be tempted to work out, but I'm trying to follow the program.
What do you do on rest days after a HB workout?
1) ARC or do moderate mileage?
2) Core and/or antags?
3) Light aerobics?
4) Beer and football?
I can't believe that 9 mins TUT once every 3 days can really translate to strength gains, but it's obviously been effective for others, so I've gone my fingers crossed!
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Post by scojo on Nov 7, 2017 17:51:21 GMT -7
Personally, I've noticed even a small amount of alcohol is deleterious to my recovery (the greatest effect occurs if I drink on the same day as I trained, rather than a different day, though).
I think 1, 2, and 3 are fine, especially the day after. It's best not to do anything too strenuous the day before your hangboard workouts.
There is also no reason you can't do supplemental exercises after your hangboard session.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 7, 2017 18:03:58 GMT -7
I go on lots of walks/hikes and watch lots of football during my hangboard phase. I also try to refrain from alcohol for the most part, mostly because I don't like to be sick and if I'm going to consume a bunch of empty calories I prefer them to be in the shape of chocolate chip cookies.
I've had good luck doing SEs on the day after my HB workout, but I prefer to do them day of, after the workout, since I'm already warm.
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Post by jrblack on Nov 7, 2017 18:59:06 GMT -7
I did SEs after my HB last night: front levers, TRX, pullups.
But I really learned just how pathetically weak my fingers are... too bad fingers take so long to build strength. Can I go back to age 20 and try again?
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Post by aikibujin on Nov 7, 2017 19:27:22 GMT -7
I personally also climb outdoors when I'm hangboarding. There are two reasons I do that.
1. I have one day every weekend to do outdoorsy stuff (agreement with my wife). If I don't go climb one week, it's not like I can climb more the next week, so that opportunity is lost forever.
2. I found that I need to climb outside to work on the mental aspect of climbing. Last year I spent all summer bouldering at ET (they had this summer membership deal), thinking I'd get really strong and ready to crush when the perfect sending temp gets here. But when the fall arrived, my lead head was all messed up and I spent a few months just to get my mental game back. If you saw the graph I posted in the other thead, you'll notice that my performance in year 2016 was actually trending downwards. This year I didn't stop climbing outside even when I was hangboarding, and I am definitely climbing better.
So depends on what your weakness is, climbing outdoors can be very helpful. You should be able to work in some outdoor mileage days with your HB workouts. Don't try to send hard, but you should be able to do some climbing 2-3 grades below your max onsight and not interfere too much with your HB workouts, I definitely saw Mark do a HB workout in the morning then warmup-onsighted my project in the afternoon.
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Post by Chris W on Nov 8, 2017 3:15:55 GMT -7
But I really learned just how pathetically weak my fingers are... too bad fingers take so long to build strength. Can I go back to age 20 and try again? I'll be 35 in January, and I didn't start hangboarding until 2014. It's made a huge difference and my fingers are much stronger now than they were when I started. You'll be surprised what a difference it can make. |
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