kader
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Posts: 37
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Post by kader on Nov 1, 2017 6:18:03 GMT -7
Hi all
It's my turn, i strained my right ring finger A2 pulley because of overuse Its actually already getting better: -No pain on daily activity -No pain middle two -No pain middle three -Full range of motion during the dag but stiff when waking up -can hang half crimp with 25% body weight off (haven't tried more yet) -but still a bit of swelling
My questions are - do you advise training grips that don't hurt at all (back 2) or that don't involve that finger? -does rehab need to involve (half) crimping? -repeaters or max for rehab ? (I guess repeaters)
I am not in a hurry to climb (received my new drum kit 2 weeks ago:)) So i dont mind to take it slowly but i want it to heal so that i can handle harder loads
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 1, 2017 9:05:00 GMT -7
When did the strain occur and what have you done since then? Specifically have you taken time off, how much, and what training/rehab have you done.
I think it’s ok/good to train grips that don’t involve the injured finger.
Eventually you should incorporate some crimping, but probably not right away.
I prefer repeaters. Generally for rehab hi rep/ lo resistance is recommended.
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kader
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Posts: 37
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Post by kader on Nov 1, 2017 16:56:11 GMT -7
Hi Mark,
Recap. Oct 1st started to feel a very mild discomfort on my 2nd day in a row of boulderin, 3rd day of bouldering of that week I took a week off went bouldering but was still the same I took another week off but did a bit of back two hangs at BW on the BM2K. The hangs seemed to help significantly by stretching palm tissue Went bouldering (October 21) and Overall it was getting better and i decided to finish the session with one 12a route. That one climb screwed up everything. Although it was an easy climb i couldn't manage to climb it safely for my finger. I am on my 12nd day of rest today What i did so far -rest -icing a couple of days -massage of the finger with those little rings that you roll up and down the finger *** -massage of the lumbricals/interossei*** -finger extension with metolius grip trainer rubber*** -a very small amount of back two hang at BW -contrast baths***
*** = "seems to help significantly"
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 1, 2017 20:12:57 GMT -7
12th day of rest or 2nd day of rest?
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kader
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Posts: 37
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Post by kader on Nov 1, 2017 21:02:22 GMT -7
12th day of rest
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 2, 2017 8:27:07 GMT -7
Ok, cool. I think you're good to start light hangboarding. I would take it really easy because 1) it's by far the best way to go and 2) there is no urgency, you just got a new drum kit BTW, is drumming hard on your fingers? Consider that question and if so, don't over-do it. I would exclude any crimping for the first several weeks. I've had the best luck by doing a 3-4 week block of hangboarding, then resting 1-2 weeks, then starting over with hangboarding (repeating as necessary until back to 100%). I would leave crimping out for the first block, and then if things go well ease into it (with vastly reduced resistance) in the 2nd block. The first block should start out really easy, low resistance with lots of rest. Take as much rest between workouts as you feel you need, but throw in an extra rest day at least once per week. I'm not a big fan of taping the injury or icing, but YMMV.
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Post by Lundy on Nov 2, 2017 13:51:02 GMT -7
I would exclude any crimping for the first several weeks. I've had the best luck by doing a 3-4 week block of hangboarding, then resting 1-2 weeks, then starting over with hangboarding (repeating as necessary until back to 100%). I would leave crimping out for the first block, and then if things go well ease into it (with vastly reduced resistance) in the 2nd block. The first block should start out really easy, low resistance with lots of rest. Take as much rest between workouts as you feel you need, but throw in an extra rest day at least once per week. I'm not a big fan of taping the injury or icing, but YMMV. This is exactly what I did when I fully ruptured two pulleys in a finger last year. The only difference is that a 5.14 orthopedic surgeon who focuses on finger injuries recommended that I probably need to tape for the rest of my life, so there's that. I didn't ice, though, after those first few days.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 2, 2017 14:17:35 GMT -7
I used to tape my A2 pulleys religiously, especially when training, but at some point* I felt like it was irritating my pulleys so I stopped taping. In retrospect I haven't noticed any ill effects, so perhaps it was the right decision, but perhaps I would have been fine had I kept taping. I'm not saying I'm opposed to taping, just that I don't personally do it any more.
[*I think this was around the time of my 2012 A2 strain that I'm always whining about, but I'm not certain.]
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kader
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Posts: 37
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Post by kader on Nov 2, 2017 17:29:04 GMT -7
Ok, cool. I think you're good to start light hangboarding. I would take it really easy because 1) it's by far the best way to go and 2) there is no urgency, you just got a new drum kit BTW, is drumming hard on your fingers? Consider that question and if so, don't over-do it. I would exclude any crimping for the first several weeks. I've had the best luck by doing a 3-4 week block of hangboarding, then resting 1-2 weeks, then starting over with hangboarding (repeating as necessary until back to 100%). I would leave crimping out for the first block, and then if things go well ease into it (with vastly reduced resistance) in the 2nd block. The first block should start out really easy, low resistance with lots of rest. Take as much rest between workouts as you feel you need, but throw in an extra rest day at least once per week. I'm not a big fan of taping the injury or icing, but YMMV. Alright thanks for the detailed answer Mark. Fortunately Drumming doesn't hurt at all. I am worried that i'll lose range of motion that's why i started to do mobility exercises from day one. So I'll start with an easy repeaters 4 weeks block on non crimp grips and report how it goes. I don't tape either, but YMMV. That being said i am not a crimper and use open grip most of the time so i have no idea what injured my finger. I have a feelin that, sleeping on my right side makes my right shoulder roll forward resulting in bad posture when climbing. My right forearm and palm are always tighter that my on the left side...
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kader
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Posts: 37
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Post by kader on Nov 8, 2017 7:09:35 GMT -7
Hi Mark and all
Need your help again. Actually i am wondering if i really have an a2 pulley strain. Let me try to explain the situation
- 18th day off climbing - two Light HB workout on day 14 and 17 - the pain at the base finger is gone - the discomfort is at the base of the finger but massage of the lumbricals and interossei make the discomfort and stiffness go away - i can crimp - pinky mono hang seems to make it worse (stiffness and swell) - hanging from pocket reduces the stiffness and discomfort a lot - i actually almost never crimp while climbing so i don't see how it could be a pulley - the hold i've started to feel discomfort on is a narrow pinch about 1.5 as thick as my fingers, not a crimp - the ulnar side of my right forearm is very stiff and massaging it make the ring finger better - when i wake up its a bit hard to make a fist - the inflammation is definitely at the base of the finger
This happened to me in the past and a bit of rest with palmar massage and stretching (kind of as described in the book page 172 but actively stretching the palm at the same time) fixed the issue.
Is there a possibility that it's fascia related? Or maybe tendon strain rather than pulley? any idea?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 8, 2017 8:45:17 GMT -7
Fascia could be part of the problem. The bit about pain during pinky monos definitely sounds like fascia (I have to ask, why are you training pinky monos?). However, this sounds more severe to me than just strain on the fascia (which usually goes away when the stress is removed). The fact that you can crimp makes me think you may just have some type of tendonitis/inflammation surrounding your ring A2 pulley. Regardless, I think the treatment is the same, but if it's simply inflammation you should be back on your fingers sooner than previously thought.
...And stop doing pinky monos?
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kader
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Posts: 37
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Post by kader on Nov 8, 2017 15:41:31 GMT -7
I actually don't train pinky mono. I tried repeaters with half body weight to see how it feels twice or trice this year really. The film canister trick that you gave me in an another thread makes it much more tolerable.
i guess i should work on reducing the swelling. Fingers extension and somehow IM pocket hang do great on the finger
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kader
New Member
Posts: 37
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Post by kader on Dec 8, 2017 4:37:05 GMT -7
1 month update. Unfortunately the injury isn’t getting better. I went climbing twice in the past month but have been hangboarding open handed regularly I reluctantly went to the doctor i saw two years ago for the same injury. At the time shoulder stretches combined with taping fixed the issue, but it was before i started the RCPTM so i don’t remember exactly
Anyway i had an ultrasound imagery of my finger and the A2 pulley is inflammated but The tendon looked healthy. So it is a tendovaginitis i guess
The doc told me that i should deal with the inflammation otherwise my tendon could get damaged. He gave me dome anti inflammatory and medicine and cold patches to apply to my finger.
I am not a fan of taking medicine for climbing injury but resting doesn’t seem to suffice. During my time off the condition improved and got worse a bit randomly.
Looks like my priority is too get rid of the inflammation Should i got the medicine route? The icing route? Is open hangboarding a bad idea (it does not hurt at all)
At this point i am ok with resting and hangboarding front two/ and do core training till this is fixed...but i miss climbing this is my first long injury Any advice to get rid of tendovaginitis?
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Post by aikibujin on Dec 9, 2017 8:33:24 GMT -7
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kader
New Member
Posts: 37
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Post by kader on Dec 11, 2017 3:35:56 GMT -7
I have re-listened to it yesterday, but i’ve mostly been doing what she advocates for the past six weeks. Maybe i need more time
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