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Post by Lundy on Oct 30, 2017 9:47:52 GMT -7
Just got back from my first climbing trip after my major finger injury at Hueco last fall. Started to feel strong and confident on the rock again towards the end of the trip, so jumped on Golden Boy at the Gold Coast. Anyone here sent that rig? I did all the moves quite easily my first time on, but good lord I can't even imagine having the power endurance to link that thing. How would folks train for that? Just brutally hard PE circuits? It's hard to even set something that's that consistently in your face with the crux coming after 60-70 feet of climbing.
Anyway, would love to hear some thoughts on that thing. Funnily enough, the guy working Gods Own Stone next to me said most folks send that climb (.14a) before Golden Boy (.13b) as it at least has a few rests in it. Ha. Definitely not there yet... |
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Post by jonfrisby on Oct 30, 2017 10:21:03 GMT -7
I put 3 days in in the spring and am going to put a day or 2 in next week (pie in the sky goal of my trip). I think MarkAnderson has sent it? I did a lot of PE leading up and it seemed to work OK. This time I have a bit more finger strength and focused on recovery as much as PE over the last month. Plan is to hopefully hit the 5th bolt with a bit in the tank, get an ok shake and fire the top. Cold conditions make getting through the first couple boulder problems much easier. I cannot imagine touching that thing above 60 degrees and 40% humidity |
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Post by Lundy on Nov 1, 2017 8:32:24 GMT -7
Yeah - it was actually pretty warm when I was on it. Probably 65 first burn, and second burn the sun had come around. Still felt do-able, so I'd be psyched to get on it in better conditions.
In terms of training for that kind of PE, though, for those who don't know, it's basically 60 feet of 20 degree overhanging slopey crimps. Given that I only have a 45 degree wall at home, I've found that training slopey crimps is really hard. Any ideas? Do folks HB this grip instead of a standard crimp? I would think it wouldn't make a difference, since grip position is the same so still getting stronger.
Anyway, thoughts welcome. Other than building another 20 degree wall, which isn't an option these days.
Thanks.
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Post by jonfrisby on Nov 1, 2017 8:43:36 GMT -7
If you have access to a campus board, I think feet on ladder intervals is fairly specific. Though some of the moves are pretty big, so specificity is tough. I'm not sure there's actually 60 feet of hard climbing though? With the ledge and the easy first bolt, it seems more like 45.
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Post by brendann on Nov 2, 2017 12:13:03 GMT -7
65 degrees is about 20 too hot. Feet on campus intervals are helpful as Jon said. 1 minute on, 1 minute off x 10. Reduce rest time by 5 seconds each session. The business is only 40 feet long at most. You could use volumes to make your woody less steep with worse holds.  |
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Post by Chris W on Nov 2, 2017 13:12:33 GMT -7
That's a pretty sweet photo
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Post by Lundy on Nov 2, 2017 13:46:37 GMT -7
Nice - Not sure why I've never thought of using the campus board to train at that angle. I have one in my garage, so will figure out how to get some feet setup... Great ideas, fellas.
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