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Post by rewinning on Oct 18, 2017 9:15:34 GMT -7
Hello, I'm wondering if anyone has thoughts on how, generally, one can adapt RCTM's schedules for when you're taking a 6 month sabbatical from work. I'm hoping to prioritize spending time with family, friends, and doing side projects, but I should still have enough time in the day to do significantly more training than what the RCTM seems designed for (people with a normal life and job My goals are first focused on increasing indoor/outdoors bouldering performance, then outdoor sport climbing. I know this means I should be focusing on strength and power, but I'm not getting the sense that having more time is actually useful for this. After all, the actual hangboard workout takes less than an hour, and the majority of the time is spent resting/recuperating. How would you guys adapt your schedule if you suddenly had a lot more time to devote to training?
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Post by scojo on Oct 18, 2017 9:52:26 GMT -7
Number 1 thing I'd change is that I would climb outside a lot more (if that's an option).
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Post by jonfrisby on Oct 18, 2017 11:54:23 GMT -7
I would climb outside 3x a week and hangboard 1-2x and then start training in 6 months. The technique improvement of a massive boost in mileage will payoff long term and you have a pretty unique opportunity. I did a 4 month road trip last year and got a lot better while losing a touch of strength/power. Totally worthwhile tradeoff IMO
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Post by willblack on Oct 19, 2017 6:38:31 GMT -7
I second Jon's opinion. I've done a couple month long road trips and I always felt like I got slightly weaker but climbed much better due to getting my technique really honed in. I didn't really climb harder, but I was able to do second tier routes second try reliably due to being able to work out beta and execute super quickly and confidently. I would do some hangboarding and limit bouldering but only as much as you can work around your outdoor days.
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Post by aikibujin on Oct 19, 2017 7:47:29 GMT -7
I agree with everyone else, just go climb outside as much as your schedule/recovery allows. I wish I have your problem! But if I were in your shoes and want to somewhat adapt RCTM’s schedule to outdoor climbing, I would focus on different goals in my outdoor climbing during the different training phases.
For base fitness phase, I will focus on mileage/volume, and climb as many easier routes as I can. So maybe I will climb two days on one day off, or three days on one day off, which means I will be climbing routes / problems many grades below my onsight limit. Maybe I’ll climb a bunch of long multi-pitch, or maybe I’ll try to climb as many easy problems in a bouldering area as I can. Whatever that won’t stress my body much, so I can climb a couple of days in a row without a rest day.
For the strength and power phase, I will focus on doing really hard moves. So maybe I will work a really short and really hard problem, or get on a rope and work out the individual moves on a route that’s at the very top of my grade pyramid. I will probably be beat up enough that I can only climb one day on (most likely just half a day or less), and two day off.
During the endurance phase, for bouldering I’ll work on longer power-endurance problems. For routes I will start by trying routes that are slightly above my onsight grade up to one or two grades lower than my max redpoint (what’s referred to as second tier routes by Steve Bechtel I believe), then work my way up to the top of pyramid again and hopefully link and send the route I was working on during my power phase. During this phase I’ll probably climb one day on one day off, or one day on two days off, depends on how rested I feel.
I may also do some supplemental hangboard or campusboard training, depends on where I feel my weakness is. I will most likely do them after an easier day of climbing when I feel that I still have some gas left in the tank.
But I totally don’t care about my indoor bouldering performance though, so if that's important to you, maybe my suggestion won't work.
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Post by hajekmarek on Oct 23, 2017 8:07:46 GMT -7
What level do you climb at and what are your goals? If you climb 5.15, then serious & dedicated training is in order to go up to the next level. If you climb 5.11, then climbing outside and improving technique should be a priority. It's a sliding scale, the better you climb, the more you have to train instead of just climbing to get to the next level. Also, if your goal is to climb better outside, then that's what you should do. If you do indoor competitions, then while climbing outside is beneficial, you'll have to focus spending time indoors pulling on plastic.
With that much time on your hands, I would highly recommend adding opposing muscle exercises 1-2xweek and at least 1 day a week of cardio training. While cardio is not strongly recommended in the RCTM, I have found a little bit of it extremely beneficial to climbing - modern research seems to lean towards a little bit of cardio as well or so I have read.
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Post by tahmad on Jul 3, 2018 9:05:19 GMT -7
Wanted to restart this thread a bit as I had a similar question.
I'll be moving to Bishop CA in the fall and will have relatively few responsibilities and thus plenty of time to climb, train, etc. (I know, I know - just for the record I love this forum mostly because everyone on it has a family and full time job etc., and still improves!).
I've been thinking a lot lately about how to adjust my training for this scenario. My main goal is always long-term improvement. But it seems kind of odd to stay inside doing a hangboard workout every third day and nothing else when I've got world class bouldering and sport climbing fifteen minutes away from town and probably 300+ climbable days a year. So I guess what I'm wondering is, how can I adjust my training to be very climbing-focused, while still orienting it towards long term finger strength improvement?
In some areas this is easy - for the power phase, just go limit boulder in the buttermilks instead of campus/max hangs. For PE, work on PE-style routes in the ORG or Pine Creek, etc. But what about for Hypertrophy? Is this the specific area where it still makes a lot of sense to keep doing repeaters, or can I conceivably replace repeaters with some sort of outdoor climbing and get the same stimulus? It seems doable to have 2-4 phases a year of repeaters and have everything else be outdoor climbing, with maybe a few max hangs thrown in there to help transition from repeaters to limit bouldering outside.
Looking forward to everyone's thoughts!
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