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Post by Chris W on Oct 8, 2017 20:12:07 GMT -7
I'm definitely psyched, just have to learn to settle down a bit! Looks like I may get one more crack at it on Tuesday before I go to The New.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 8, 2017 20:15:27 GMT -7
Do you have the beta on film yet?
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Post by Chris W on Oct 9, 2017 4:08:00 GMT -7
No, just in my head and written down. I haven't asked anyone to film me, but it would be pretty interesting to see. The part that I usually fuss over is the foot beta. It may sound a little funny, but for me, moving a foot just a coupe of inches can make a HUGE difference. Last year, my send of Welcome to The Bird (12b? c?) came after switching to a foot hold 2 inches higher and right of the "regular" foot hold.
I'll try to remember to ask someone next time I'm out with multiple people around. The local climbing community has been pretty good to me. More than half of the time, when I go out I am not able to find a designated climbing partner, and when that happens, I'm usually able to find someone nice enough (and safe enough) to belay for me while I climb my project.
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Post by jonfrisby on Oct 9, 2017 7:35:59 GMT -7
Well I was gonna see if you need someone to work it with but sounds like you're gonna get er done soon! Send around a beta vid after you finish, eh?
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Post by Chris W on Oct 9, 2017 17:09:36 GMT -7
If I'm around and available, I'd be happy to climb it with you, whether I've sent or not.
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Post by Chris W on Oct 10, 2017 9:20:38 GMT -7
Yeah, so... still no send. I don't like to blame conditions, but they really didn't help today. It was so hot and humid that the rock was wet and slimy from rock sweat. The water mixed with the chalk on the holds to give it a slimy toothpaste consistency. I dried things off as well as I could with my shirt after the warm up burn, which helped a little. First redpoint attempt came within a hair of my high point, second redpoint attempt resulted in a one fall/hang of the route.
So now, with my coming trip to the NRG, it will be 2-3 weeks before I can get back on the route. I'll leave this Sunday the 15th and drive home on the 23rd, followed by a week of working "days" and a double shift Saturday the 28th.
I'm trying to decide what to do between now and then. I may do a power session before I leave, then have fun at the New and try not to get sucked into a project route, come home and do a solid PE session then try to hit the rock again. Or, I guess I could just do a PE session before I leave and forget power, since I seem to have more than enough to do the route. Any suggestions?
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Post by aikibujin on Oct 10, 2017 9:58:15 GMT -7
Nothing to add on your training, but it really just sound like you will send in better conditions. A small tripod can be useful for shooting video beta. That's what Mark uses.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 10, 2017 13:59:34 GMT -7
I like the idea of training power before you go. You'll probably get plenty of endurance on your road trip while your power will begin to fade (especially if you climb a lot of long days). Best to maintain it as long as you can.
I have a question for you, but I'll save it for when your season's over.
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Post by Chris W on Oct 10, 2017 17:51:26 GMT -7
Great, now I'm really curious. Ask away whenever you wish. Season will probably be over after the first week of November.
This whole thing has been pretty interesting, and the crux of the process is becoming more mental than physical. This is the second "season" I've devoted to the climb, so I've got a lot invested in it. I've made enormous progress since the spring season when I first got on it and didn't think I was physically capable of doing the moves. It's definitely the "next" climb at the crag, since I've sent all the classic hard-man routes that were "easier". Laid Back 11c, Groovin' 11d, Monkey Boy 12b, Hinterland 12c?, Welcome to The Bird 12b/c. Next in line is The Streak 13a, my project.
Quite the challenge. I do really appreciate all the advice and help.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 10, 2017 17:59:12 GMT -7
How many days have you spent on it? How many each season? [That is not the question]
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Post by Chris W on Oct 11, 2017 2:42:22 GMT -7
Looks like 7 days this spring season and 6 days so far this fall season. At this stage in my life, I kind of cram all my climbing into the PE and Performance phases of the spring and fall, which hopefully will correspond to the best weather. This route will be the first that has taken more than 1 season to complete.
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Post by Chris W on Oct 26, 2017 3:05:50 GMT -7
Well, I got back on my project after my NRG trip. Not sure if the trip helped me physically or if the cooler temps did it, but I felt good on the route. Still no send, but came soooo close on my two redpoint burns before running out of light (and time, since the kids and my wife are sick). I've adopted a new mental strategy to help with the still-significant jitters, which involves focusing on the route one section at a time while climbing, rather than standing at the bottom and looking at the whole thing to the top.
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richb
Junior Member
Posts: 55
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Post by richb on Oct 26, 2017 10:02:09 GMT -7
Sweet! Keep it up. Are you still doing PE workouts between days out?
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Post by aikibujin on Oct 26, 2017 11:40:22 GMT -7
Don't underestimate the power of "the perfect sending temp"!
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Post by Chris W on Oct 27, 2017 3:15:56 GMT -7
Yes, I'm still doing PE workouts, but haven't done one in about two weeks, between outdoor attempts and going to the NRG. I'll do a session today, assuming I don't start running a fever, like my wife and kids. I can thank my father-in-law for that one, who decided to wait until we got out of the car in WV to tell me "You may want to wipe down the inside of the truck, because I'm coming down with something". I just about lost it.
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