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Post by daustin on Nov 10, 2017 12:07:11 GMT -7
I'm a beginner at HB, but for the recommended beginner set up grips, MR is the only one that really worries me. Everything else feels safe. I'm removing 55 lbs (of my 170lb body), and with MR I feel like my fingers are going to rip out of my hands. FWIW when I started training the MR as well as the 8mm closed crimp, I was removing 70-75 lbs off my ~170 lb body. I've posted about this before, but for quite a few seasons of HB training these grips, it felt like the loads I was using were low enough that I was really working more on tendon conditioning vs. actual strength training. Not that there weren't strength benefits, but they were definitely secondary to just getting my fingers to the point where the grips didn't feel super tweaky. And it's really paid off -- not that I'm super strong on the MR all of a sudden, but whenever I do encounter a pocket in actual climbing (not too often), I feel pretty comfortable using the grip with no real anxiety about injury risk.
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Post by jrblack on Nov 10, 2017 20:19:49 GMT -7
And it's really paid off -- not that I'm super strong on the MR all of a sudden, but whenever I do encounter a pocket in actual climbing (not too often), I feel pretty comfortable using the grip with no real anxiety about injury risk. We don't have much (any?) pocket-based climbing in Colorado, so maybe I don't need to be training pockets. I'm doing it only because the RCTM prescribes it for the beginner workout and I want to faithfully try the program as written. The weakest grips I have are the pinches (at -90 lbs), but nothing hurts except MR. You say the loads were low enough that you felt you were conditioning tendons... does that mean you weren't pushing until failure? Were you stopping short of your maximum capacity to limit the injury potential? And does anyone know of any case of someone actually being injured from MR HB training?
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Post by aikibujin on Nov 10, 2017 23:08:54 GMT -7
We don't have much (any?) pocket-based climbing in Colorado, so maybe I don't need to be training pockets. That's what I thought too, so I didn't train pockets when I first started HBing. Then I went to Shelf Road and got injured on some pockets. So now I train both the mono and MR. Even if you don't climb on limestone, you may encounter pocket-like features on other rock types. Maybe a crack where you can only get one finger in, maybe a shallow hold you can only get two fingers on. For injury prevention, I think it's good to train pockets.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 11, 2017 8:42:40 GMT -7
The front range doesn’t have a ton of traditional pockets, but we have lots of pods that accept fewer than 4 fingers.
The best reason to train pockets is so that you don’t develop a disparity in grip strengths that sets you up for injury. If time is limited, just train MR, which is the most common pocket grip and sufficient for climbers who aren’t seeking out pocket routes.
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Post by elevate on Oct 5, 2018 15:56:38 GMT -7
First hangboard cycle and I was feeling the same way. Not actually getting any injury, but just a weird tweaky feeling. Found and applied the technique from the photo that aikibujin posted, and that feeling totally went away.
I'm still not sure if it would be wise or stupid to purposely train with the other fingers in flexion but with MUCH more weight removed.
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Post by jetjackson on Oct 30, 2018 16:46:36 GMT -7
The best reason to train pockets is so that you don’t develop a disparity in grip strengths that sets you up for injury. If time is limited, just train MR, which is the most common pocket grip and sufficient for climbers who aren’t seeking out pocket routes. So you think if time restrained - more important to train MR than IM? TBH, there are very few pockets where I climb in the Grampians, so I really only train pockets as an investment in the future for when I eventually live near or travel to a limestone crag. I have never considered training MR for not developing a disparity in grip - although my IM is about 25 pounds stronger than my MR, so I really have a disparity there already - is that a bad thing? Should I just focus on the MR? Next season I'm switching up to limit grips, but do 3 sets 7/6/5, rather than the current 7/6 and focus more on edges on the forge - as edges in the Gramps are pretty much it. Thinking to do Forge Edge 2nd Bump, Thin Crimp, Slopey Crimp, Med Pinch Forge, and MR.
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