How to return from 6 weeks Off Aug 19, 2017 14:46:53 GMT -7
Post by jacobi on Aug 19, 2017 14:46:53 GMT -7
I can't really find any advice/threads about how to return from injury - I guess its probably pretty injury specific/time off specific, but i'm a bit confused. I took 6 weeks off for a wrist injury after making it through a long ARC cycle and 10 intermediate hangboard workouts (and 2 power workouts). I was transitioning to outdoor climbing as well. So i've been back a little over 2 weeks now and have done 3 ARC sessions (last one being 2x30min in overhanging terrain), one limit bouldersession , climbed outdoors at easy to medium intensity 2-3 times, and yesterday did a repeater hangboard workout. My wrist is feeling good but I have no idea how to return to training - I don't feel like restarting the entire cycle makes a lot of sense, and winter is coming. I want to maximize outdoor climbing time as I don't have a big outdoor climbing base, but i'd also like some kind of peak for the fall season here and hopefully salvage all the work I did this spring. During my 6 weeks I lost about 8lb and surprised myself by bouldering pretty hard in the gym (onsighting v5, sending v6 in a few tries, working v7's, which is some of the hardest bouldering i've done but i'm also at my lightest weight in years and years). Should I do some kind of micro-cycle like 2 weeks of hangboard, and then go into a full power phase? Or does it make sense for me to switch to a non-linear periodized program for the fall here and then get back on a full cycle when the snow starts flying again? My goals are to send a handful of 12a's, hopefully some b's, and maybe a 12c which I think is within reach this season for me. Help appreciated, thanks!