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Post by alexandra on Apr 10, 2017 13:27:27 GMT -7
Hi all, I just came back from a weekend bouldering trip where i completely failed to send my project. I must have gotten on it about 30 times this weekend alone, and worked on it a couple of days in the past. Even though I made progress (2 more moves) this time, the last move on the problem is giving me a lot of trouble and the main issue is that I cannot identify what I am doing wrong and therefore don't know how to fix it. The problem is called Calypso (7a) at the holy boulders, but I didn't find a good enough video of the move I am stuck on to post here. See this video: vimeo.com/122535209. Calypso starts at 3:54, and the move I am stuck on is kind of skipped over in the video (around 4:35), though she does it a bit differently that what I am trying to do and what everyone else I have seen does. Basically, I have left hand on a super crappy crimp, right hand on a sloper side pull with compression between the two and then I need to move food high up and go to a good undercling, but every time I try to do this move I can touch the underling but I am not far enough in it to grab it... everybody else that I was climbing with did the problem, and i also thought I was doing exactly the same thing they were doing, but somehow I was short of grabbing the hold. I really would like to figure out what is going wrong - is it that I am shorter and I just need to do the move differently (which I have no idea if it is possible for me cause other beta seems also reachy)? something else? how does one identify what needs to improve? (this post might sound like I am whining a bit, which I am, but I am pretty disappointed after this weekend and pretty broken from all the 30 burns on it - unfortunately, last move is the one I cannot do so it is like I climbed most of the problem 30 times  ) |
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Post by daustin on Apr 11, 2017 8:39:06 GMT -7
Hard to give a real diagnosis without being able to see the move better, but here's a few questions that might help you self diagnose why you couldn't do the move:
- The woman from the video is doing the move differently than you. How? And why do you think she's doing it differently?
- You said everyone else you were climbing with did the move in question. Did they have their feet in the same place as you? Are they all significantly taller than you?
- You said you could touch the undercling but not grab it. Do you mean that you couldn't get your hand far enough into to grab it in the optimal location? Or that you could grab the optimal location but couldn't hold on long enough once you got there?
- Did you talk to the other climbers about this at all? Did they have any hypotheses as to why they could do it but you couldn't?
- Have you tried doing the problem from the highest holds you can reach off the ground (i.e. only doing half the problem instead of trying the whole thing)? If so, can you do the move then?
Hopefully if you think about these questions, you can self assess whether you couldn't do the move because of a lack of strength (can't hang onto the hold), power (can't get to the hold), or PE (can't fight the pump). Or, if none of these feel like the culprit, it may be a beta/technique issue.
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Post by korduroy on Apr 11, 2017 9:24:06 GMT -7
if I recall correctly, my girlfriend bumped her left foot in and right, pasting it on some small bump, and set a right foot more as a compressed heel in the dish, putting her body to be in a good position to pull in and up on the heel, allowing her right hip to rise and flip the right hand to the undercling. This was about 2 years ago though, so I may be thinking of one of the sequences she tried. did you try just skipping it?
She is 5'1" with a -1.5 ape (short torso). Its always so hard to find beta for her, but also so fun to spark the creativity. |
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Post by alexandra on Apr 11, 2017 10:17:30 GMT -7
wow, that sounds like crazy beta, I might need to try the high heel hook next time.I didn't find anything good on the left to move my left foot up and ten heel hook, but I thought about it. Everyone else that did it was significantly taller than me (at least 5.8), which would be about the amount of inches I would need to get to the undercling deep enough if I keep doing the move exactly how I do it, without changing anything. I never managed to get to the undercling deep enough, I only managed to tap it, I felt too low on it (so it was definitely not a strength/endurance issue, it war rather a power/need different beta issue). korduroy, do you climb at the Holies often? If you guys are in the area, it would be great to climb with you and your girlfriend, I am betting that her and I will be needing very similar beta  I assume she ended up sending the problem, right?? which is so impressive given that she is even shorter than me!!! there are some reachy stuff on that problem. |
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Post by korduroy on Apr 11, 2017 13:17:25 GMT -7
Yeah, she sent in a few goes after refining her beta. Its the unfortunate side of climbing, especially where we live. A lot of the problems in our local spots re too reachy for her. If you can frequent the spot, id say experiment with everything you can possibly think of. and try each thing a few times. Ive found that with her, she says a move is really uncomfortable and doesn't want to do it, but then it ends up being the beta she sends with.
To answer your other question, we were out in Illinois for a friend's wedding. So unfortunately we only had two days to check it out. We would like to go back though.
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Post by alexandra on Apr 11, 2017 14:46:08 GMT -7
aw, bummer! I am really looking to find a female climbing partner that climbs at a similar level and is at a similar height disadvantage...
If you get the chance, could you ask her if she remembers what her beta was (in case, as you said, you remembered incorrectly). You can just pm me on this site. Thanks!! (Where do you live btw?)
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Post by korduroy on Apr 13, 2017 4:09:04 GMT -7
yeah, she struggles with "climbing with the boys" and is always looking for another strong lady to climb with. Its a bummer because shes sent a few v10s, but will struggle on climbs well below her ability if their not short friendly and shes not into huge dynamic movements to compensate(8 screws and a rod holding her ankle together).
She says she thinks the heel hook is what she went with. She recalls trying some smeary font-esque footwork, but didn't think that was the winning beta. We are on the east coast, CT/RI.
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Post by alexandra on Apr 13, 2017 9:00:39 GMT -7
wow! V10!!! congrats! she is so strong. Out of curiosity (and also because I would be stoked to try those V10 if they are short friendly, what are the climbs and where are they? It's good to see someone else having the same difficulties, I climbed V6 in two tries one day and failed on a V2 cause the only hold that existed on it was 2 inches above my reach on slab... |
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Post by korduroy on Apr 13, 2017 10:07:30 GMT -7
Lets see – shes sent “the Test” v9/10 in an undisclosed location in CT (sorry). “Slice v10” in NWCT, and “Full Service v10” in Hueco TX.
Recently she has been working on this line a good friend of ours established called “White Lines v10/11” at Bradley in CT. She cant do the v6 stand start, but the sit start provides her with enough momentum to get established and into the holds for the stand.
She has the same issues as you all the time. If we go someplace, especially someplace new, my warmups become a project for her because she has to find all this alternate beta. Its frustrating. Now we explore a lot and ask friends in other areas for short-friendly climbs (ie. climbs the kid crushers try). She also has a much better attitude about it than I. She doesn’t really get overly desirous for “the send.” I wish I were the same. The past few years she has been much more psyched on sport routes because most offer a better opportunity for short-friendly beta.
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Post by alexandra on Apr 24, 2017 9:08:12 GMT -7
Yeah, she sent in a few goes after refining her beta. Its the unfortunate side of climbing, especially where we live. A lot of the problems in our local spots re too reachy for her. If you can frequent the spot, id say experiment with everything you can possibly think of. and try each thing a few times. Ive found that with her, she says a move is really uncomfortable and doesn't want to do it, but then it ends up being the beta she sends with. To answer your other question, we were out in Illinois for a friend's wedding. So unfortunately we only had two days to check it out. We would like to go back though. I went back this weekend, with sub-optimal conditions (super warm and humid) and after only two tries of the high heel hook beta I sent the problem!!!! thanks so much for the suggestion, it is so frustrating that it takes me so long to figure out the right beta for me and I don't know if I could have done it without your (girlfriend's) advice!!! |
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Post by korduroy on Apr 26, 2017 4:23:27 GMT -7
that's awesome! good work. psyched to hear the beta worked out for you
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Post by alexandra on Apr 26, 2017 9:30:22 GMT -7
please say thanks to her from me. Hope we get to climb together some day.
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I assume she ended up sending the problem, right?? which is so impressive given that she is even shorter than me!!! there are some reachy stuff on that problem.