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Post by Chris W on Apr 8, 2017 18:17:56 GMT -7
What's a reasonable expectation for the total number of redpoint burns (or "working" burns) on a route per climbing day?
I seem to be able to expect three hard, good attempts on a climb in a given day. Today, for example, I was working a route at my limit. I'm still practicing and refining my beta. I "warmed up" on the "first pitch", a 5.10 for about 40 feet to anchors. Rested at the anchors, then went bolt to bolt through the upper section of the route (30 or 40 feet?) which goes at hard 5.12 or 13a. I lowered and rested for about 45 minutes, then did the same thing again. On my third try, I was pretty worn out and felt a bit weak, but that's likely because I'm trying to recover from a cold the kids gave me.
I've had a similar experience with different routes, different lengths and different styles. Usually 2-4 good hard tries per day before I'm totally worn out. Sound reasonable?
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Post by aikibujin on Apr 9, 2017 8:07:24 GMT -7
Sounds pretty reasonable. Three good burns on something at my limit is the most I can do in a day.
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richb
Junior Member
Posts: 55 
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Post by richb on Apr 9, 2017 13:31:33 GMT -7
It sounds like these were somewhere between working burns, where you're refining beta and doing some sections multiple times, and redpoint burns. Working burns are definitely more tiring and I'm usually only good for two in a day. As for redpoint burns it really depends on how high on the route I'm falling and how many hard moves I'm doing to get to that point, but four burns is about my max for an average route. PE training, specifically linked boulder circuits, has made a huge difference for me in the quality of those last burns of the day.
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Post by willblack on Apr 9, 2017 15:45:30 GMT -7
For me, it mostly depends on the style of climbing. On vertical/slightly overhung limestone I'd say 3-4 if it's right at my limit but maybe as many as 8 if it's the kind of route that all comes down to one low-percentage move. On steep sandstone endurance routes I'm lucky to get to 3 burns.
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Post by Chris W on Apr 9, 2017 17:48:25 GMT -7
Thanks guys, that's all super helpful. I would definitely say these were working burns. I'm also definitely fighting this cold my kids gave me, so I was pretty washed out today.
I wasn't sure if I was just lacking in all-day-staying-power, but it sounds like I'm probably on par.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 9, 2017 18:35:59 GMT -7
I think the ranges given above are reasonable. It can depend on a lot of factors, like the duration and intensity of your burns. I think age is an important factor as well. I used to be able to count on 4 good burns in my twenties, then 3 in my late 20's/early 30s, now 2 (although if I go hard and long on the first burn, the 2nd won't be very good).
It is possible to train for more quality burns per day (aka "stamina"). However, I believe firmly that stamina and power are mutually exclusive. I could see an argument for favoring stamina for full-time/dirtbag climbers. For a weekend warrior with young kids, fewer burns per day is preferable!
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Post by Chris W on Apr 10, 2017 3:39:07 GMT -7
Ha! Yeah, usually one of the kids has a nuclear meltdown by the time I'm on my third burn. Ever try working a crux 60 feet up while the youngest is screaming, your father-in-law is trying to talk to your wife (your belayer), your wife is telling your father-in-law to keep the middle child away from the cliff, the oldest is whining, and someone's damn dog is trying to sleep on your rope? Circus!!!!
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 10, 2017 8:00:46 GMT -7
Sounds like fun times!
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Post by brendann on Apr 10, 2017 10:21:07 GMT -7
I agree with the data but disagree with the conclusion. I prefer to have a lot of stamina to onsight and 2nd-try as many routes as possible in a new area. It also allows you to take a break to play in the river and come back for one more quality burn during chilly evening temps. |
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