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Post by willblack on Apr 5, 2017 14:34:45 GMT -7
I'm curious whether anyone has tried extended LBC's as a way of training for long power endurance routes like those at The Red. I've had really good results from training with LBC's but I seem to have developed a weakness when it comes to steep, sustained routes with decent rests. I feel like a lot of these routes boil down to 6-10 V3/V4 boulder problems with decent rests in between. This leads me to think that slightly lower intensity, longer duration LBC's would probably be more valuable than those composed of just 3 or 4 problems. Is there anyone out there who is good at steep stuff and trains like this?
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Post by erick on Apr 5, 2017 15:51:17 GMT -7
Never been to the Red but while training for Maple my LBCs were about 60 moves long, probably a bit on the long side. I build the LBC off the length between rests then add 5 to 10 moves. YMMV but it has worked well for me.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 6, 2017 14:23:19 GMT -7
I'm curious whether anyone has tried extended LBC's as a way of training for long power endurance routes like those at The Red. I've had really good results from training with LBC's but I seem to have developed a weakness when it comes to steep, sustained routes with decent rests. I feel like a lot of these routes boil down to 6-10 V3/V4 boulder problems with decent rests in between. This leads me to think that slightly lower intensity, longer duration LBC's would probably be more valuable than those composed of just 3 or 4 problems. Is there anyone out there who is good at steep stuff and trains like this? I would look through brendann 's posts.
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Post by Chris W on Apr 14, 2017 18:03:25 GMT -7
Will, I'm experimenting with this type of thing and may use this thread to bounce ideas off of you and others. I don't get to train at a gym; instead I train in my barn. I've done long LBC's in the barn, but not quite as long as what you're talking about.
Instead of setting a certain number of problems or a certain number of moves, I've been doing timed LBC's. I've done 2 sets between 2 and 4 minutes different seasons. I'll usually have 3 or 4 boulder problems I'll climb through, not counting holds I'll use to down climb. I've tried cycling through those problems as many times as I can until my timer beeps. This season I'm getting a little more scientific and using time gates to get through problems.
Bump the thread later and let me know your ideas and experience. My brain is shutting down right now and I have to work a double shift tomorrow.
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Post by willblack on Apr 17, 2017 3:42:20 GMT -7
That's an interesting idea, I'm still trying to build some power right now, but I plan on switching to PE at the end of the month. I'll also be training (mostly) on my home wall, which is a moonboard with some jugs I can use to downclimb and some additional holds here and there.
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