Proper ARC/Outdoor Mileage Difficulty

[mclay]

On outdoor mileage and ARC-ing difficulty the RCTM states: "These routes should be approximately one to two full number grades below the climber's maximum onsight ability; they should not require rehearsal or 'all-out' efforts to complete, but they should be moderately fatiguing..." (100).

I'm assuming the YDS is being employed in this recommendation, so how does this work in practice for North American climbers? If you onsight 5.12a you should aim for 5.10a difficulty? 5.9 onsight = 5.7 outdoor mileage/ARC? I understand that this is just a general recommendation, so I would be interested in hearing examples of what other practice in this regard.

[aikibujin]

The way I understand it, one to two full number grades is four to eight letter grades (above 5.9) difference. So if you're onsighting 5.12a, then do OM/ARC between 5.11a to 5.10a. If 5.9 is your onsight limit, in theory you should ARC between 5.5 and 5.1. But I think in practice, a 5.9 climber should just stay on the wall for as long as they can without developing a unrecoverable pump (maybe 5 min, maybe 10 min), rest for a short period, and get back on the wall again. The aim is to extend the amount of time they can climb continuously, before worrying about the actual difficulty.

[daustin]

At my gym, I onsight 5.12-. I ARC throughout the range 5.10-5.11. If I had to pick a single grade for me to ARC at right now, it would probably be either 10d or 11a.

So at least for me, 1-2 number grades below onsight sounds about right. In practice, I ebb and flow between harder sequences near or at my onsight limit and easier sequences of active recovery climbing.

[tetrault]

As you pointed out, it is just a guideline, and it is more important to pay attention to how your are feeling and how hard you are working.

That said, I generally end up with a very similar "gym onsight" to gym ARC grade differential as Daustin. As an ARC beginner, I had a much larger differential (maybe 2-3+ grades).

[mclay]

Thanks for all the replies. That's about what I was thinking. However, I don't have a "gym onsight" grade as I only train on my home wall. Onsighting on real rock is inherently more difficult, but I haven't focused on improving onsight level since I started using the RCTM. I probably need to up my onsight grade just to keep is closer to where I am currently redpointing/projecting.

With regards to ARC-ing, most people only really focus on the improvements from training on their projecting/sending grades. It would be interesting to see the corresponding improvement of ARC grade over the years. I know I'm "straying on the wall" longer and pulling a lot harder moves during ARC sets than when I started 2 years ago, but after hearing some of the advanced climbers on the forum talk about their ARC routine (20 minute sets on a 45!) it doesn't seem like I've upped the grade that much.

[ehowell]

Sorry to jump on this late, but do you feel the same ranges apply to outdoor mileage? I know that's what is stated in the book, but for my experience, I'm not climbing nearly as continuously outside as I am in an ARC session in the gym. I onsight in the 5.11+ range on rock, but I'm wondering if my outdoor pitches are sometimes too easy at the 5.10 range, even doing 8 or so of them in a session. However, even though I don't feel as pumped as I do in a gym session, perhaps I'm really getting a lot of bang for the buck on technical practice. I'm just wondering how much 5.10 movement applies to my projects in the 12+/13a range. I don't like to go much higher than 11a or b, because being out of prime shape, I start blowing coveted onsights! I'm guessing 5.10 is probably optimal, just wanted to see what others are doing.

[richb]

I think getting up to 11a/b sounds about right for mileage days given what you are projecting. You could always work in a route or two of a higher grade to top off your session. It's nice to get some variation in styles and angles, especially ones that match your projects, but that's not always easy - not every crag has overhanging 11- routes, for example.

[ehowell]

May 8, 2017 16:37:23 GMT -7 richb said:

I think getting up to 11a/b sounds about right for mileage days given what you are projecting. You could always work in a route or two of a higher grade to top off your session. It's nice to get some variation in styles and angles, especially ones that match your projects, but that's not always easy - not every crag has overhanging 11- routes, for example.

Thanks Rich. That's more or less what I had in mind. I find that the will is strong for me to get on harder stuff, but I generally just end up disappointing myself if I do -- I'm not in performance shape, but I'm holding myself to performance standards. Plus, it's hard to get in a lot of pitches when you're working up against your max onsight every time.

[richb]

I hear you. I suppose when I said 11- or higher sounds right, I was thinking more about familiar routes than about onsights - do you mix in routes you have wired at higher grades or do you strictly onsight on mileage days?

I find it's hard to get into the "I'm training, not performing" mindset at a crag, especially if my partner or nearby climbers are trying to perform. Also I usually find that the fear of falling has crept back in during the preceding rest phase, getting me more pumped than I otherwise would on a given route (especially while onsighting). Mileage days are my time to work out the kinks, slowly dialing up the intensity and dialing it back if necessary. And time to just enjoy climbing w/o the pressure of projecting, explore new climbs, goof off, whatever.

[MarkAnderson]

When doing OM, I think less about grades and more about terrain. For example, a 5.11 slab will be provide much different training than a slightly overhanging 5.11 jughaul. If you want the physical benefits of ARCing, you're better off on the 5.11 jughaul. Unfortunately routes like that tend to be hard to find the lower you get down the grade scale. It definitely helps to pick the "right" crags. Generally it's pretty hard to get a high quality ARC session on rock (from a physical perspective), but I think the technical & mental benefits likely out-weight the physical downsides.

Also, it's not necessary to climb every route the easiest possible way. If a route is "to easy", don't shake out as much, or skip some of the better holds (especially footholds).

[ehowell]

Thanks guys, all good points. I think for me I'm less concerned with the physical side as I am the technical aspects. I use my Base Fitness phase to really hone in on movement fluidity, not necessarily the aerobic capacity. Endurance, for now at least, is actually my strong suit, but coordinating breathing, hip movement, etc is where I still have room to improve. Rich, I think your points about onsighting on OM days are good ones. Even though I'm onsighting below my max, I'm probably too concerned with performing than I am with actually practicing what I need to practice. I do generally try and climb at new crags and new routes, and rarely repeat routes aside from crag warm-ups, but perhaps I have a good bit to gain by going back to some of the old moderates.

[MarkAnderson]

Here's a random thought, try onsighting a route on lead, then lowering and immediately repeating it on TR. That way you get to send something new, but you also get a chance to try "risky" movements in with less fear, and you can try some different options. I know I climb much more conservatively when onsighting, and if I struggle through a crux I find it helpful to try it again on the lower--I usually find much more efficient beta the 2nd time.