Post by jcm on Feb 8, 2017 20:09:35 GMT -7
So, I've got a sore finger and am taking a few weeks off from crimping. Instead of spending that time moping and eating ice cream (OK, I may to some of that), I've decided to invest this newfound block of time to learning how to train a few things that I've been neglecting for the last few years. Notably, posterior chain (deadlifts) and flexibility. This thread is about the latter.
My lower-body flexibility is somewhat lacking. I have decent healthy shoulder mobility, but anything involving hips and legs is pathetic. Hip turnout is so-so, hamstring flexibility is awful. If trying to touch my toes, I can get barely to my upper shin. So there is a lot of potential to improve.
But I don't want to spend a significant amount of time or energy working on this. I don't think flexibility is the primary thing holding back my climbing, and the majority of my (finite) time and motivation is and will be better spent on other things. So how to improve flexibility efficiently and effectively (the RCTM way)? Spending an hour twice a week going to a yoga class isn't going to happen. Too much time, a lot of it isn't climbing-specific, and half the exercise are too advanced for me to do (see: terrible flexibility).
What I'm looking for is 2 to 5 basic, targeted exercises that will improve flexibility in a climbing-specific manner. Hip turnout, high steps, and wide stems are the main objective, but some basic shoulder stretches would be good too. I'm looking to set up a set of stretches/exercises that I can do regularly throughout the season on rest days, or while resting between ARC sets, etc. 10-15 minutes per session as a desired time investment. It needs to be short, simple, and easy enough that I will actually do it, and that it won't take time or attention away from the important stuff.
Any suggestions for a specific set of exercises to use?