Returning to training after injury

[scienceguy288]

I had a bout of tenosynovitis during a round of strength training which I've now largely recovered from by resting.  I have been doing some antagonist muscle training to get back into form and am just about ready to get back into climbing specific training.  Is there an effective way to do this?  I was midway through my strength phase, but don't know if it's best to jump in right where I left off in terms of hangboarding etc or dial it back to a few days before the injury transpired.  Or should I just plow ahead to where I should be in the progression if I had not taken a break to recover from the injury?  Thanks.

[Chris W]

1) When did the tendinitis start?
2) Where is it?
3) How did you get it?
4) How long did you rest?
5) Did you do any rehab exercises?
6) What is your training goal?

[scienceguy288]

1) When did the tendinitis start?

3 weeks ago

2) Where is it?

Finger/hand (Flexor digitorum)

3) How did you get it?

Probably overuse and not enough antagonist training.

4) How long did you rest?

2 weeks full rest no activity.  1 week of non-climbing-specific antagonist training.

5) Did you do any rehab exercises?

Rice bucket and light stretching

6) What is your training goal?

I have a RRG trip coming up in mid-March.

[Chris W]

Mid March doesn't give you a ton of time. I'd probably start hangboarding again all the way back at the beginning of the hangboard session, where the resistance is lightest. If it causes issues again, you may have to re-evaluate.