Post by samlightningbolt on Dec 30, 2016 14:00:19 GMT -7
Hey y'all - first post but been reading for a while and appreciate all the knowledge and experience on these boards.
First a little background: this past fall I completed my first disciplined, periodized training cycle as per RCTM in preparation for a trip to the buttermilks now. I got here on monday and had really strong feeling 2.5 climbing days and was about to send the main thing I came here for(High Plains Drifter, through the crux, about to go to the jug) when I heard and felt a pop from my left pinky. I'm obviously super bummed because I felt so good and it came out of nowhere and I'm also annoyed about the loss of at least some intensity from the next training cycle but I'm looking ahead and trying to figure out how and what to train while I'm rehabbing my finger. Luckily its a pinky and the strain seems pretty mild compared to what some other folks have had to deal with.
I read through what alot of people do in order to rehab finger injuries and I will surely be doing some of that but didn't see what other training activities people do while they have to take time off of serious hard finger training and hard climbing and I'd love hear what folks have done to not get too soft and weak. Right now just thinking Core, Lifting, antagonist training, etc. Any other ideas would be awesome.
I'm also wondering if there are good reasons not to hangboard at a normal intensity with the non-injured fingers(i.e. Front 3, 3- and 2-f pockets)? The one major thing I can think is that if the rest of my fingers get way stronger than that pinky then when I go back to maximum efforts and full 4F crimping that the risk of re-injury would be alot greater than if I took it way slower until I could hang at pre-injury intensities on all grip positions. Appreciate any input from folks with more training and injury experience than me.
Also for the record I'm a 26yo male and I've been climbing for the pat 5-6 years. Got okay fairly quickly and platued quickly as well and was platued in the mid 12s and v6 until this year sent a v7 at the beginning of the year and with how i felt coming into this trip, am for sure stronger now than I have been in the past. Cheers to a new year with lots of sending and no injuries.
First a little background: this past fall I completed my first disciplined, periodized training cycle as per RCTM in preparation for a trip to the buttermilks now. I got here on monday and had really strong feeling 2.5 climbing days and was about to send the main thing I came here for(High Plains Drifter, through the crux, about to go to the jug) when I heard and felt a pop from my left pinky. I'm obviously super bummed because I felt so good and it came out of nowhere and I'm also annoyed about the loss of at least some intensity from the next training cycle but I'm looking ahead and trying to figure out how and what to train while I'm rehabbing my finger. Luckily its a pinky and the strain seems pretty mild compared to what some other folks have had to deal with.
I read through what alot of people do in order to rehab finger injuries and I will surely be doing some of that but didn't see what other training activities people do while they have to take time off of serious hard finger training and hard climbing and I'd love hear what folks have done to not get too soft and weak. Right now just thinking Core, Lifting, antagonist training, etc. Any other ideas would be awesome.
I'm also wondering if there are good reasons not to hangboard at a normal intensity with the non-injured fingers(i.e. Front 3, 3- and 2-f pockets)? The one major thing I can think is that if the rest of my fingers get way stronger than that pinky then when I go back to maximum efforts and full 4F crimping that the risk of re-injury would be alot greater than if I took it way slower until I could hang at pre-injury intensities on all grip positions. Appreciate any input from folks with more training and injury experience than me.
Also for the record I'm a 26yo male and I've been climbing for the pat 5-6 years. Got okay fairly quickly and platued quickly as well and was platued in the mid 12s and v6 until this year sent a v7 at the beginning of the year and with how i felt coming into this trip, am for sure stronger now than I have been in the past. Cheers to a new year with lots of sending and no injuries.
