|
Post by scojo on Dec 15, 2016 19:24:03 GMT -7
I tried to parse some previous threads about DIP issues, but I'm not sure if I'm having the same problem. A lot of other threads describe a sensation of needing to "pop" the joint, but I don't have that.
From time to time, I tweak the DIP joint in my index finger early on in a session (seems like it's usually outdoor sessions). Today I tweaked it on a crimp (I think I was half crimping with a thumb catch). It probably happens more often on crimps that aren't flat or crimps that have some rotation to them. I only warmed up on a brief traverse, so maybe my warm up wasn't quite enough. Although, I didn't expect this particular hold to be tweaky.
If anyone has experienced something similar, are you able to prevent it by warming up a certain way or being very conscious of the way you grip certain holds?
Sometimes it gets better as I continue to warm up, but this time it persisted (but didn't really get any worse). Anyway, it usually (mostly) resolves itself after a day or two of rest, so hopefully that'll be the case this time. But often it can really inhibit the session, if I'm really intent on projecting something.
|
|
|
Post by scojo on Jan 6, 2017 16:20:52 GMT -7
Just wanted to give an update on this... I resumed training as normal, but avoided too much volume on hard crimps. Certain holds elicited some soreness, but even hard crimps didn't seem to make it worse or reinjure it. I didn't climb for a week over the holidays. After returning to climbing, there was initially some soreness in the same spot, but that went away after a couple of training sessions.
So it seems this injury was sort of a freak occurrence from a single crimp coupled with probably not warming up the fingers enough.
|
|
|
Post by Chris W on Jan 7, 2017 4:14:19 GMT -7
Personally, I think it's hard to accurately diagnose finger issues like that. I often feel "tweaky" early on in a workout on certain grips, but have found that warming up those specific grips helps quite a bit.
|
|
|
Post by MarkAnderson on Jan 7, 2017 9:36:21 GMT -7
I often feel "tweaky" early on in a workout on certain grips, but have found that warming up those specific grips helps quite a bit. Sounds like old age!
|
|
|
Post by Chris W on Jan 7, 2017 21:20:30 GMT -7
Ha! It WAS my birthday yesterday...
|
|