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Post by andreas on Nov 18, 2016 5:58:51 GMT -7
Hello to everyone,
I am just starting my first full cycle of the training manual and now i am looking for a challenging yet possible training goal for the spring season. A 2 week trip to the red is planned for the first two weeks of April.
I climbed for a long time in Europe and moved to Canada last year. This year i climbed my first 13c's and a good amount of 13a's and 13b's.
Three lines which impressed me a lot last year are Kaleidoskope, No Redemption and Ultra Perm. As i did not try them i am looking for some guidance on what to train for. I found pretty good explanations for Kaleidoskope, based on this i can probably set problems.
Regarding No Redemption is think it would be big moves on open crimps with bad feet.
What i am struggling most with is Ultra Perm. The line blew me away when is saw it but i am not sure if this might be way out of reach regarding the two weeks timeframe. Does anyone have more specific beta and some advice how to train for that one? Also some insight on what style it is would be great. Open handed crimps, slopers, pinches?
Last year i wanted to try Paradise Lost but got shut down completely. When i got on it i realized that all holds are basically exactly the opposite from what i trained during the winter. I would like to avoid that mistake next year.
Thank you very much for any advice and assistance. Andreas
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 18, 2016 20:40:53 GMT -7
I don't have any advice on your proposed routes. I've done Kaleidescope but I've never been on the other two.
I did want to mention that the spring is not the best time to visit the Red. Maybe some folks who live out there can offer their insights (I've never been out there in the spring, but I've heard lots of sad stories about wet conditions ruining spring climbing seasons out there).
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Post by andreas on Nov 19, 2016 9:47:54 GMT -7
Hi Mark,
thank you for the response. I am aware that the spring is not the optimal time for the Red. We have been there last year and we where very lucky not having any rain. As friends from Europe come over I am somewhat bound to the spring. Fall would be far better, however unfortunately my work does not permit extended climbing trips between October and December.
I will make the best out of it. The main projects for the season are in Ontario anyway, just 60min from where i live.
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