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Post by tedwelser on Dec 3, 2016 19:46:43 GMT -7
View Attachmentyoutu.be/SqAF5JthrgcIt'll be interesting to see how you are your friends climb Path to Mordor. Let me know what you think about it, and here's another one that's quite a bit easier and straightforward. On that note the hardest part of Path to Mordor was the cross over for me(though I'm generally weak at crossovers). I also sent Get Crunky and it's a great problem, tried to get a video of that one but wasn't able to, so I'll probably be posting that on Friday. By the way how do you like the yellow holds on your 20degree wall? Good luck at the Red, eat a piece of Miguel's pizza for me Here is Grady on Path to Mordor. He makes it look easy, but I assure you that I found it very challenging! I will keep working on sections and exploring a couple beta options. youtu.be/3gNloGsK1fc
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Post by tedwelser on Dec 15, 2016 21:50:25 GMT -7
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Post by hmarcroft on Jan 13, 2017 5:17:04 GMT -7
I haven't done that one yet, I'll have to give it a go on my next limit bouldering session. Haven't been able to get on the moonboard at all recently because of the strength phase. Just had my first session though yesterday and it went well. Also I've been climbing some more problems set by Ben Moon on the current set up, if you haven't already checked his problems out I would highly recommend them. He has a new one called the famous five(V6) and its a good one.
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Post by octopus on Jan 13, 2017 14:14:02 GMT -7
Hey Ted,
I got around to installing the LED kit on my moonboard. Everything seems to be working properly except the first LED of the 2nd string is stuck on red (the light that is in the dead center of the moonboard). Did you ever have this problem? Normally, I'd chalk it up to a dud, but this LED happens to be the same one that also connects directly into the circuitboard.
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Post by tedwelser on Jan 13, 2017 19:43:30 GMT -7
Hey Ted, I got around to installing the LED kit on my moonboard. Everything seems to be working properly except the first LED of the 2nd string is stuck on red (the light that is in the dead center of the moonboard). Did you ever have this problem? Normally, I'd chalk it up to a dud, but this LED happens to be the same one that also connects directly into the circuitboard. Hey Octopus- Sadly we do not have the LEDs installed so I can't offer any insight. They seem cool but we put an extra grid of 60 t-nuts on ours instead so we don't have the room for the LEDs or if we do it would be sorta crowded. I might try to contact some of the gyms that installed the LED sets or chat with folks at Moon. My guess is something is off in the wiring but it would be good to get insight from experts.
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Post by hmarcroft on Jan 15, 2017 15:20:37 GMT -7
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Post by scojo on Jan 25, 2017 14:25:38 GMT -7
I've starting using the moonboard at my gym more often. It felt nails hard the first time I tried it, but I did a lot better the next few times I got on it. I should be able to try some of the problems in this thread this week.
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Post by scojo on Feb 8, 2017 23:27:16 GMT -7
I've been mostly trying/climbing the most repeated problems in the V4-V6 range. Got my first V6 on today - Leap Creep (although no leaping was necessary). Overall I'm feeling much stronger on the Moonboard! Not sure if it's just getting used to the holds/angle or if I'm getting stronger (hopefully both).
Ted, I tried Parenthood today. Fun problem! I could do all the moves pretty easily, but was too tired to link it. It would be good for PE training. Q: how do you use the pocket? I could use just my middle finger, but it was kind of painful. I found that using my ring and pinky was a bit more effective/ergonomic.
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Post by tedwelser on Feb 9, 2017 21:41:02 GMT -7
I've been mostly trying/climbing the most repeated problems in the V4-V6 range. Got my first V6 on today - Leap Creep (although no leaping was necessary). Overall I'm feeling much stronger on the Moonboard! Not sure if it's just getting used to the holds/angle or if I'm getting stronger (hopefully both). Ted, I tried Parenthood today. Fun problem! I could do all the moves pretty easily, but was too tired to link it. It would be good for PE training. Q: how do you use the pocket? I could use just my middle finger, but it was kind of painful. I found that using my ring and pinky was a bit more effective/ergonomic. Hey Scojo- Glad you tried Parenthood! IT is tiring! lol. I use a birdbeak two finger, with my middle stacked behind my index. I find monos a bit tweaky, and had not really considered using that hold until I tried it with the birdbeak and it felt fine. I initially had to project this problem, basically I just did a series of low points, starting after the pocket, and then just adding two moves or so deeper into the problem. If I am flowing effectively I don't get tired, but if I am not flowing, it just falls apart completely and that is the end. Please do me a favor-- climb my problem "12 years old" and leave a comment that the white hold on D9 is in. This is actually my daughter Sydney's problem, and the route is much better at that grade with the foothold included. It flows a lot better for smaller climbers and for folks at the V4 level (Sydney is about 5 feet, and this is her hardest moonboard problem so far). The app does not let you edit the problem afterwards. It is also a cool problem without that foot, but is less good for kids. I think it would be great it the MB app would allow more editing / helpful commentary. There seem to be a lot of problems and not a good way to sort them for that would be more doable for folks in the V4 range. Some of the V4s presume V8 strength. I totally hear you about getting used to the moonboard-- I think you must be getting stronger (in the fingers) and also in terms of body tension. I remember I had a terrible time at first with my feet skating from the feet on the kickboard when I got stretched out, but now, it feels ok usually, so I think it is an increase in body tension for that angle.
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Post by tedwelser on Feb 9, 2017 22:00:03 GMT -7
Hey- I checked it out a couple weeks ago after noticing that, based on the holds, it looked easy for the grade. I actually found it rather hard to get my foot onto the starting hold after the first move. I thought it would feel easier than it did, and it was painful on my knee so I did not really work towards sending it. If I were either stonger or more flexible I think it would feel a lot better. lol
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Post by srossabi42 on Feb 24, 2017 11:13:46 GMT -7
circuit1smr.pdf (153.32 KB) if anyone is looking for a moon board circuit, here's one i came up with. i think it's about as entry level as a circuit could be on the moon board but doing ~30 moves on that thing is pumpy! edit: just wanted to mention i match on move #13 and use open feet
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Post by arrase on Mar 17, 2017 2:15:34 GMT -7
I've been mostly trying/climbing the most repeated problems in the V4-V6 range. Got my first V6 on today - Leap Creep (although no leaping was necessary). Overall I'm feeling much stronger on the Moonboard! Not sure if it's just getting used to the holds/angle or if I'm getting stronger (hopefully both). Ted, I tried Parenthood today. Fun problem! I could do all the moves pretty easily, but was too tired to link it. It would be good for PE training. Q: how do you use the pocket? I could use just my middle finger, but it was kind of painful. I found that using my ring and pinky was a bit more effective/ergonomic. Hey Scojo- Glad you tried Parenthood! IT is tiring! lol. I use a birdbeak two finger, with my middle stacked behind my index. I find monos a bit tweaky, and had not really considered using that hold until I tried it with the birdbeak and it felt fine. I initially had to project this problem, basically I just did a series of low points, starting after the pocket, and then just adding two moves or so deeper into the problem. If I am flowing effectively I don't get tired, but if I am not flowing, it just falls apart completely and that is the end. Please do me a favor-- climb my problem "12 years old" and leave a comment that the white hold on D9 is in. This is actually my daughter Sydney's problem, and the route is much better at that grade with the foothold included. It flows a lot better for smaller climbers and for folks at the V4 level (Sydney is about 5 feet, and this is her hardest moonboard problem so far). The app does not let you edit the problem afterwards. It is also a cool problem without that foot, but is less good for kids. I think it would be great it the MB app would allow more editing / helpful commentary. There seem to be a lot of problems and not a good way to sort them for that would be more doable for folks in the V4 range. Some of the V4s presume V8 strength. I totally hear you about getting used to the moonboard-- I think you must be getting stronger (in the fingers) and also in terms of body tension. I remember I had a terrible time at first with my feet skating from the feet on the kickboard when I got stretched out, but now, it feels ok usually, so I think it is an increase in body tension for that angle. Tried 12 year old, fun little thing, and mentioned D9 in the comment ;-)
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Post by climbnkev on May 8, 2017 20:33:15 GMT -7
First Moonboard workout went about as I had expected...hard. Climbed two Moon V4's "Wuthering Heights" and "Far From the Maddening Crowd". I can't remember the last time I fell on a V4 but I guess it's all relative. My 10 year old is more interested in the app than the bouldering but he made a fun warmup we called Baby Steps (V4-). I also requested to share lists with you guys, so if you get a strange request know it's just another training geek from RPT Forum. Cheers!
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Post by hmarcroft on May 20, 2017 10:56:08 GMT -7
It's been a little while but here's another fun one for you guys. I also wanted to see if you guys think the grade is accurate cause it's kind of hard for me to tell
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Post by hmarcroft on Jul 2, 2017 14:31:08 GMT -7
It's been a while. Here's a video I made of some of the problems we've been sharing. Planning on making more in the future. youtu.be/j75oDlev7Mw
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