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Post by tedwelser on Nov 3, 2016 9:00:09 GMT -7
I don't know how many folks in the community have access to a moonboard, but if there is sufficient interest it might be fun and helpful to share problems that we like, have established or use for particular training goals. That sharing can be both through this forum or through the moonboard app as well. I would love to hear about V5/6/7 problems that people enjoy and integrate into their training. I will go first. Two days ago I put up my first problem with the 2016 setup (using sets A and B). It is a 13 hand move problem, so it is rather out of character for a moonboard problem, and flows well without any out of balance moves. I rated it V6, though it is more tiring than cruxy. I hope to work up to the point of using this problem as a component in my PE training by traversing into the start of it after about 14 moves on the 20 degree wall. "Parenthood" is a long, complex project. Though the commitment may seem daunting, it is ultimately satisfying.
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Post by hmarcroft on Nov 10, 2016 0:48:14 GMT -7
I have one in my backyard that I built about 2 years ago. I only use that and fingerboarding/campusboarding to train for the outside world.
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Post by tedwelser on Nov 10, 2016 8:07:27 GMT -7
I have one in my backyard that I built about 2 years ago. I only use that and fingerboarding/campusboarding to train for the outside world. Cool- That problem looks stout, with a tough finish. We will check it out tonight. Do you mainly boulder, or do you do routes as well?
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Post by hmarcroft on Nov 10, 2016 19:55:19 GMT -7
I primarily boulder, I do dabble a little in sport though. Seppuku is a pretty tough 7A+, let me know what you think. Here's another one!
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Post by tedwelser on Nov 11, 2016 10:58:15 GMT -7
I primarily boulder, I do dabble a little in sport though. Seppuku is a pretty tough 7A+, let me know what you think. Here's another one! I did not notice at first that your using the full set-- we could almost try Seppuku by substituting an adjacent hold to the little yellow one, but the second we cannot really do. We only have the A and B sets up on our moonboard right now. We needed the yellows to help populate the 20 degree wall. Do you have any A/B problems to suggest?
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Post by hmarcroft on Nov 11, 2016 13:33:37 GMT -7
Sure thing, here are a few.
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Post by hmarcroft on Nov 15, 2016 0:45:14 GMT -7
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Post by tedwelser on Nov 15, 2016 21:32:15 GMT -7
Hey Heath- Thanks a bunch for climbing that problem and posting the video! It was fun to see how you made some of the foot decisions slightly differently, but generally we did most parts similarly (though I clearly have less finger strength! lol). I will work on getting clips of folks from our Athens crew on the problems you suggested. It will be a couple weeks till that happens, since this Thursday I am going to my daughter's soccer season ending banquet, and then planning to go to the Red this weekend, so I will be missing my next couple Moonboard sessions, and then will miss due to Thanksgiving. Tonight I was able to do a little Moonboard bouldering, but was interrupted by the meeting for our local climbing non-profit that we are organizing. It seems likely that Moon will introduce a new hold set-up in 2017, which if that happens we plan to move the original yellow set back onto the moonboard, and buy holds to replace their function on our other walls. It will be fun to have a new slate of possible problems. Tonight I put up a pinchy problem called "Get Crunky" in honor of chocolate snacks from Japan. It is pretty fun, with some good foot solutions in sections. The other day, it was weird, I tried to find your problems in the MB app, and I could not find you as a setter. And, then, I just searched again now, and found you. That app is dodgy! Anyways, we will check out Path to Mordor and post a video of it. I like how you provide for feet in the early sections, and then create a difficult crux with what looks to be a hard to use foot well out left for the finish.
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Post by hmarcroft on Nov 17, 2016 1:13:59 GMT -7
youtu.be/SqAF5JthrgcIt'll be interesting to see how you are your friends climb Path to Mordor. Let me know what you think about it, and here's another one that's quite a bit easier and straightforward. On that note the hardest part of Path to Mordor was the cross over for me(though I'm generally weak at crossovers). I also sent Get Crunky and it's a great problem, tried to get a video of that one but wasn't able to, so I'll probably be posting that on Friday. By the way how do you like the yellow holds on your 20degree wall? Good luck at the Red, eat a piece of Miguel's pizza for me
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Post by tedwelser on Nov 19, 2016 13:02:40 GMT -7
youtu.be/SqAF5JthrgcIt'll be interesting to see how you are your friends climb Path to Mordor. Let me know what you think about it, and here's another one that's quite a bit easier and straightforward. On that note the hardest part of Path to Mordor was the cross over for me(though I'm generally weak at crossovers). I also sent Get Crunky and it's a great problem, tried to get a video of that one but wasn't able to, so I'll probably be posting that on Friday. By the way how do you like the yellow holds on your 20degree wall? Good luck at the Red, eat a piece of Miguel's pizza for me I like the yellow holds on the 20 degree wall. They are currently not in a moonboard layout, but we set up the 20 degree with moon spaced t-nuts, so if we do a reset we could put them in their assigned locations. Alternatively we might move them onto the moonboard if there is a 2017 setup introduced. But, that would limit where we can put the kilter sets that we bought to make the moonboard more accessible and to get a wider range of hold types onto the 40 degree. here is our moonboard with the 20 degree to the side. Sadly no Red for me, I am being a bit of a fairweather climber-- very cold weather just moved in. Will post video of your problems as soon as we can get a good session in.
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Post by octopus on Nov 20, 2016 18:37:49 GMT -7
I'll finish building a moonboard in December. You were talking about a 2017 set. I didn't realize they changed the sets every year. Does that usually happen in January, because I might wait for the new set so I won't have to reset all the holds a month after I put them up.
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Post by tedwelser on Nov 21, 2016 12:01:19 GMT -7
I'll finish building a moonboard in December. You were talking about a 2017 set. I didn't realize they changed the sets every year. Does that usually happen in January, because I might wait for the new set so I won't have to reset all the holds a month after I put them up. Hey- I and my moonboard friends were only guessing that a new setup might be announced in January because it would help enliven interest in the board, and this last year saw a big uptick in general interest in Moonboards, with the App and the LED setup. Plus, the fact that they named this one 2016 seems to indicate a new standard for updating on an annual basis (rather than running competing alternative set ups at once). I think if you get a chance to set up with 2016 you should for at least a week or so in order to sample the problems that have been established already. It only takes a couple hours to move the holds to the new set up if you have a friend or two to help. Ted
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Post by octopus on Nov 22, 2016 8:11:32 GMT -7
Thanks for the heads up! Looking forward to crowding this thread later.
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Post by jefflau on Nov 25, 2016 10:22:04 GMT -7
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Post by tedwelser on Nov 28, 2016 20:50:43 GMT -7
Finally! Our first moonboard day arrives tomorrow, Tuesday. Excited to try some of these problems and hopefully to film folks on them. Thanks for the energy! I got a short video of my friend Grady climbing Path to Mordor-- he liked it a lot. He actually found the section near the 4th move the hardest rather than the cross, but he did not seem overly troubled. He is a great deal stronger than I am, so I had much difficulty with several sections, but I am happy to work at the different challenges. Pulling off the ground is powerful! I could not put nearly enough strength into the right hand gaston for move 4 to stay stable. youtu.be/3gNloGsK1fc
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