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Post by RobF on Dec 27, 2017 14:13:04 GMT -7
Experimented a bit at the end of last season with what I provisionally called "pseudo-onsighting" (unless anyone knows of any different names???)
Just above my onsight grade I frigged up or rapped in to what I thought was the crux from the ground. Did it around 3x then lowered to the floor. After a rest went for the route. Worked pretty well on the routes I used it with. My thoughts were that time and energy spent working out cruxes en route would lead to poor movement patterns getting hard wired in...
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Post by RobF on Dec 30, 2017 9:45:31 GMT -7
Nightmare! Just realised my belay grade for this year is 2 grades more than my redpoint grade. Must try harder for next year...
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