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Post by sillygoose on Oct 7, 2016 2:10:28 GMT -7
My level of climbing induced frustration is reaching an all time high. Yesterday I had one of those "why do I even bother, I should sell all my climbing gear" kind of days on my current project.
A quick recap. I started trying the route in April. The first sessions I couldn´t do the crux moves, but after working the route for maybe 2-3 sessions I could do all the moves. By the time summer came along I was pretty close to sending the project, one hanging it the last few sessions. With summer came the warm weather and crap conditions so I decided to do some training and return in peak form for the fall.
The route is quite short (maybe 60 feet) and bouldery/power climbing. The route has two distinct cruxes at the very start. Basically it is two V5/V6ish boulder problems stacked on top of each other. After 15 moves you reach a decent sized hold with your right hand, but it is not a rest hold. From this hold there is one dynamic move where you have to step your right foot up on a pretty small foot hold that is close to the right hand hold and lunge with your left hand to a decent hold. Once you stick that move it is easy 5.11 climbing to the top. This long dynamic move isn´t particularly hard, but it is dynamic and requires some power. It is not close to being a crux move on the route but yet this is the move that always shuts me down. When rested I can do this move 10 times in a row, no problem.
I returned to the project around 2 weeks ago. Conditions weren´t great but yet the crux moves felt quite easy. Summer training had definitely paid off. However while I would blast through the 2 cruxes, I still got shut down on that same dynamic move each time. I don´t really feel pumped when I get to the hold before the lunge, just that my power is depleted, I can´t really pull with my right hand. I’ve been close to sticking the move but there seems to be some kind of mental block or something. So basically I climb the 15 moves to the decent hold, lunge out with my left hand and fall. After a 5 second hang I can easily pull off the move and climb to the top. I can do the route from after the second crux 4-5 times in a row without falling and can climb the route to the top from the first bolt (after the first crux, but before the second) in one go.
Yesterday conditions were good and I was convinced I would send the route, but was yet again shut down on that same move. It is fucking infuriating! Anyways sorry for the long post. Any suggestions of how to pull this out of the bag? Should I take a break and train more, or should I keep trying. What would be a good training tactic in which case? Power endurance on a 20 move circuit or train more power?
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Post by shingle on Oct 7, 2016 4:45:08 GMT -7
I would suggest to do your best and not make a mountain out of a molehill. By that I mean, it seems that you are building up the dynamic move in your mind while on the RP attempt. It causes you great tension and anxiety when you get to it. You do fine on it after you fall because all the anxiety about the send is gone. If you mentally treat that move like every other move on the route, maybe itll go. But then maybe you will fall later on. who knows! but to me it seems like the standard mental building/breakdown at that one move that is hurting you. Treat the RP attempt, and especially that move, like you do when you do the move after youve fallen. As soon as you let go of that anxiety and desire, im sure youll cruise the entire rig. Sometimes, when I get shut down mentally on a stupid move like that, I go and climb my favorite route in the area (preferably WAY easier) and remind myself why I LOVE climbing. That usually helps ground me and ease some of the tension.
Sorry for sounding very cliché and Sharma-y. Good luck! |
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Post by Chris W on Oct 7, 2016 4:58:58 GMT -7
HaHaHaHa! No real wisdom from me, but my most sincere sympathies! I've had a very similar season so far. Two of my main climbing partners are injured, one severely (surgery to repair a broken calcaneus). One new found climbing partner is in a foreign country, one forgot what day he was going to meet me at the crag and left me belayerless, and other crag regulars are working or traveling.
The last two times I have gone to the crag, It's been with the wife and kids. Wednesday, the baby was SCREAMING when I did my warm up, which always sets me on my edge. After 30 minutes she finally fell asleep, and feeling very irritable I tried my first burn on my project. The opening is a brutal (for me) boulder problem, followed by easier climbing. I blew off the top one move shy of the finishing jugs after flubbing some beta. Mad as a hornet, I lowered off swearing. The baby woke up and my wife spent the next eternity hiking out to the "bathroom". When she came back, I gave the project another burn, managed the opening again, and then the older two kids started shrieking and fighting. Blew off the top at the same spot having run out of gas.
I'm still mad and cranky and irritable. I wish I had some good advice for you, but I don't. I'm hoping my self serving example at least comforts you in knowing you're not alone. I'm just trying to accept the fact that I feel this way and not get too hung up on it. It sounds like physically, you're ready to send your project. Mentally, you could try changing your focus from sending the route to focusing on the process. If you haven't, you should check out Arno Ilgner's Rock Warriors Way.
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Post by sillygoose on Oct 7, 2016 6:00:51 GMT -7
Thanks for your replies. I have read some of the literature on the mental aspects of climbing, such as the Rock Warriors Way and Maximum climbing. I find thees concepts of thinking about it as a process and letting go of your ego etc. to be very good... in theory. I keep telling myself that it is only a rock climb, to do one move at the time, focus on process etc. but deep down I know I am only trying to trick my mind, because I want this send and probably for all the wrong reasons. I´ve reached a point where I put too much pressure on myself, because I know I can do it and I´ve tried it so many times. So I try to trick myself by telling my self blatant lies like: "this burn I´m only warming up" and "I´m only putting the slings up" and "I´m only climbing up to take down the slings" to ease the pressure I put on myself, but my brain doesn´t buy it, it knows I want to send it badly and then I blow it.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 7, 2016 7:12:54 GMT -7
I think all the mental tips above are great.
Considering the physical side...do you have video of yourself on it? I would get some film of you attempting the move on redpoint and attempting it from a hang and compare the two carefully. You might be doing something subtly "wrong" (like sagging your hips, flagging in a different spot, initiating momentum differently, etc). You maybe be able to deduce the problem and give yourself a few mental cues to focus on in the moment preceding the dyno.
Otherwise I think your tactics are sound (especially practice the move over and over, and climbing into the move from lower on the route). You will likely send it any day now if you keep after it.
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Post by brendann on Oct 7, 2016 7:48:32 GMT -7
Two options: Recover more fully at the rest by training ARC, or find a different way to do the big lunge.
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Post by willblack on Oct 7, 2016 8:33:26 GMT -7
I recommend the Will Black method: Training->New Project "honeymoon phase" (do all the moves)->Realization of how hard the route actually is->Several weeks of projecting->more training->renewed psych/confidence->quick progress->first one-hang!->another one-hang->more one-hangs->even more one-hangs->loss of ambition and resignation to never ending cycle of sisyphean one-hang hell->depression->scary, chossy trad climbing penance phase->return to route "just to feel the moves"-> send despite horrible conditions and lack of warmup (god that felt easy, why did that take so long?)
I plan on releasing a book and offering personal training in this method, but for now that should be enough to get you there.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 7, 2016 9:26:57 GMT -7
I recommend the Will Black method: Training->New Project "honeymoon phase" (do all the moves)->Realization of how hard the route actually is->Several weeks of projecting->more training->renewed psych/confidence->quick progress->first one-hang!->another one-hang->more one-hangs->even more one-hangs->loss of ambition and resignation to never ending cycle of sisyphean one-hang hell->depression->scary, chossy trad climbing penance phase->return to route "just to feel the moves"-> send despite horrible conditions and lack of warmup (god that felt easy, why did that take so long?) I plan on releasing a book and offering personal training in this method, but for now that should be enough to get you there. This is remarkably similar to my process on Shadowboxing  |
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Post by willblack on Oct 7, 2016 12:22:38 GMT -7
This is remarkably similar to my process on Shadowboxing You're welcome. |
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Post by sillygoose on Oct 16, 2016 10:58:32 GMT -7
Mandatory brag update. I finally managed to send the route this weekend! My first 5.13 (or the less sexy sounding french grade of 7C+). Basically left for an alcohol laden company team building trip to Poland last weekend. Proceeded to get the flu immediately upon my return. Was sick for 5 days. Went out yesterday and sent it second go. Don't know if I recommend this method, but it definitely helped to take the pressure off
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Post by jessebruni on Oct 17, 2016 10:13:48 GMT -7
Ahh, the old "I got sick, dropped a ton of weight, and sent my project" story. Works every time!
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Post by jlarson on Oct 19, 2016 11:32:50 GMT -7
I recommend the Will Black method: Training->New Project "honeymoon phase" (do all the moves)->Realization of how hard the route actually is->Several weeks of projecting->more training->renewed psych/confidence->quick progress->first one-hang!->another one-hang->more one-hangs->even more one-hangs->loss of ambition and resignation to never ending cycle of sisyphean one-hang hell->depression-> scary, chossy trad climbing penance phase->return to route "just to feel the moves"-> send despite horrible conditions and lack of warmup (god that felt easy, why did that take so long?) I plan on releasing a book and offering personal training in this method, but for now that should be enough to get you there. Bwahahaha this is way too true! |
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Post by daustin on Oct 19, 2016 21:43:55 GMT -7
Ahh, the old "I got sick, dropped a ton of weight, and sent my project" story. Works every time! Slightly more common than the old "go on a bender in Poland, then send" story, I must say! |
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