Training for Physical Pitches

[Tom]

Hi,

Anyone have any thoughts on weekenders training for goal routes that are long and physical?


Like alot of folks I can train on the board or in the gym once or twice a week, and then get a day outside once a week.


I've got two routes I'm working for that have a long (100+ ft) pitch of physical climbing - mostly steep, thin  laybacks. The cruxes get pretty thin, but no single stopper moves.

Any thoughts on how to build up that kind of endurance when you can't actually be on the route a few times a week?


Thanks! 

[jcm]

What are the routes? Name, location, grade? This will inform better responses. "Steep" and "thin" can mean very different things to different people.

Are you close on the route (i.e. trying to spin up your endurance in the right-now timeframe to send it in the next few weeks), or is this a longer-term project that you are training to try in a future season?

Why are you falling on the route? Are you powering out on the cruxes, or failing later due to pump? Are you able to recover in the rests? What fails first- do you pump out (forearms), or fail due to general body fatigue (core).

[Tom]

Hi

Here's the first: www.mountainproject.com/v/duet-direct/106269732

There's 80 - 100 ft of physical laybacking: it's just off vertical, but there aren't really any edges or solid positions to get the weight off your arms and relax the tension.  Starts with 20 feet or so with at least two pads, so not bad.  The crux is 15 feet where it gets down to 1 pad, so not terrible.  And then there's another 40 feet or so of strenuous layback where the grip is not a problem.  The challenge is that there aren't any real rests.

I can do the moves, but I'm losing the body tension to keep feet on. Realistically this is on the list for next year.

If i could get up there twice a week I think the problem would work itself out, but I'm wondering if anyone has any supplemental training ideas that really help on physical pitches like this.

My core work today is generally done after I run. A couple sets of ab roller, followed by a plank for a minute.

Any thoughts?
 

[jcm]

Sounds like posterior chain weakness is giving you trouble with regard to keeping your feet on. Your current core program doesn't really hit those areas. If you are looking to do offseason weights work, consider adding in some hinge-type exercises like deadlifts or kettlebell swings to work the posterior chain. This will address that issue, and be generally beneficial.

For this type/grade of climbing, ARCing will be beneficial also. If you want specificity, you could try to set an ARC traverse using lots of sidepulls and poor feet. This will work the keeping-the-feet-on issue. And, in general, lots of ARCing for build the needed base fitness.

And push aside the "there are no rests" idea. There are always rests. Always. You just need the skill and fitness to find and use them.