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Post by erick on Aug 26, 2016 11:17:10 GMT -7
Im working a boulder project near my home ("Aggressive Reject" in Leavenworth WA) which requires some serious pull power. Dynamic movement is not my thing. Smith Rock slow static balance is my jam so this is a "work a weakness" project. It also happens to be the hardest boulder I have ever tried. The move I'm struggling on is a basically a one arm throw. Just getting the first move done was a struggle but yesterday I was actually able to establish enough to try going for the second move. I got way closer than I though I would and I have the necessary power to get to the hold and latch it, but could not connect. I had my wife grab a video of some of my attempts and I attached the best one. It looks like my problem is my butt starts falling down before my hand reaches the hold. What do I need to do to fix this problem. Should I focus on core tension, or drive the movement more with my hips? Is this a sign of core weakness somewhere (lower back?) that I should work this season. Let me know what the collective wisdom thinks, also if there are any WA boulder climbers who have done it or want to work some problems together let me know. Eric Attachments:IMG_1298.MOV (9.13 KB)
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Post by jetjackson on Aug 26, 2016 12:13:38 GMT -7
Why do you think dynamic movement is not your thing?
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Post by erick on Aug 26, 2016 15:23:46 GMT -7
It feels like the least comfortable and most unnatural type of movement. I tried to do that move by putting my toe where my right hand was and pulling up static a few times before I realized I needed to do the throw.
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Post by jetjackson on Aug 26, 2016 20:46:30 GMT -7
Seems like you're right there? Is it just a latch strength thing? Do you campus?
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Post by daustin on Aug 27, 2016 18:13:11 GMT -7
Hard to say without 1sthand experience of the boulder, but I'd agree that it looks like you're butt is falling. Could be lack of core strength, but my guess/speculation is that it's more about hip movement. If there's any way to tweak your feet or even just shift your center of gravity so that your hips are closer to the wall, that may help. Can't really tell from the video, but looks like your left foot could potentially be more engaged, which could help with that last 'oomph' to get to the hold. How many times have you tried this problem/move? As JetJackson said, you look pretty close, and I don't see anything GLARING... your dynamic moves don't look nearly as bad as you say they feel  |
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Post by jetjackson on Aug 27, 2016 19:59:03 GMT -7
I tend to agree with Daustin that you don't seem as bad as you suggest at the whole dyno thing.
How many runs did you give at it?
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Post by erick on Aug 28, 2016 13:29:44 GMT -7
I've got two sessions in on that move, about 12 tries total so far. The hold are killer sharp and punishing to my skin. During the last session I focused on pushing more with my left arm and feeling core tension between it and my right foot. When I put it together it seemed to feel better and I had one real close attempt.
I tried engaging the left foot more but there is no foothold I can make use of so I'm just kinda using it to balance. Would you all say this is front core or rear core that needs to be trained?
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ericg
New Member
Posts: 42 
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Post by ericg on Aug 29, 2016 7:31:01 GMT -7
That is pretty good for 12 tries total. You can definitely send this boulder soon! I paused the video at exactly 5secs, you are very close to the hold... your butt does start to fall and that could be a core strength thing. But what I noticed most is how square you are. If your able to turn your hips/shoulders just a little to the left you will have the distance to latch the hold at your current strength.
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Post by jessebruni on Aug 29, 2016 9:37:04 GMT -7
During the last session I focused on pushing more with my left arm and feeling core tension between it and my right foot. This is what I was gonna suggest that you do. Your problem isn't with the move being dynamic, your problem is with lacking the strength to maintain the body position long enough to move your right arm up (seems to be about 1/4 second). Apart from hitting the weights the best thing to do is what you're already doing. Analyze the problem, discover what is holding you back, focus on shoring up those weak points, and then hopefully send. |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Aug 29, 2016 14:01:17 GMT -7
How hard are you trying to latch that hold? It seems like you have enough height to reach it. Maybe even if you try 100%, you don't have the strength to latch it with your butt falling away, but...maybe you do? I'm guessing this is at least 50% mental, and perhaps the sharpness of the holds is discouraging you from giving it 100% effort (and maybe that's the wise approach). Have you tried the move with a power spot? Since you have a spotter, I would try that, using progressively less assistance each time you stick the move. You may find you just need to convince yourself you can do it.
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