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Post by jlarson on Aug 19, 2016 12:21:07 GMT -7
I'm fortunate to have access to a gym with a pretty awesome training area...well designed campus board, 60 degree fixed project wall, assorted weights and bands, rings...pretty much all one could ask for.
There is also a peg board and man is that thing hard! Is it just a party trick or is there a specific training purpose for this apparatus?
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Post by scojo on Aug 19, 2016 14:09:05 GMT -7
I guess it forces you to control your dynamic movements in order to get the pegs in. I find it kind of fun, but don't see how it would help my climbing at all.
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Post by brendann on Aug 19, 2016 19:43:11 GMT -7
Good for lockoff training, i.e. Mixed climbing or onsighting tricky pocket routes.
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jan
New Member
Posts: 10
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Post by jan on Aug 28, 2016 0:58:09 GMT -7
Imho (which is backed by the opinion of some experienced coaches) the peg board as most people know and use it is pretty useless, due to the unspecific grip position, the long locking position and the totally untypical movement. A pegboard can be useful if you use climbing holds instead of sticks and 'pre-pinned' sequences, which you are campusing. A full description of the concept can be found in a Facebook post by P.Matros (one of the original GimmeKraft guys): The mentioned benefits are more climbing specific flexing patterns, which are yet systematic enough. Personally I don't see a lot of benefit in comparison to campusing on a 30-45° wall, which is filled up with various holds.
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