Skin and Tape

[Tom]

Hi, I searched a bit for a dedicated discussion around this topic, but didn't see anything.  So:

I've been really suffering some skin limitations this summer as I'm hangboarding and trying to get some outdoor mileage.  The tips are not too bad, but the pinch points below the first joint on the fingers are blistering and breaking.

What do you guys do to preserve the fingers during a hangboard session?

thanks!

[scojo]

I fixed this by switching some of my grips to shallower pockets. There is a thread somewhere that talks about this issue, but you'll have to sift through a lot of posts to find the details.

Another solution could be to decrease resistance and apply tape to your middle phalanges. However, I personally never tried this, because I'm stubborn and hate taping.

Edit: here is the thread: rockprodigytraining.proboards.com/thread/444/changing-grips-next-hangboard-cycle

[Chris W]

Tom, you may want to give your skin a break, climb less, focus on hangboarding and let your skin heal.

Personally, I've gotten my skin healing times down to a science. If I get any flappers, tears or blisters during a session, I tape them. Once the session is done, I carefully trim away any dead or devitalized tissue, wash the area with soap and water, place a little antibiotic ointment on it and cover it with a bandaid. I'll keep it bandaged until it heals. This is especially important at night, when most healing occurs anyhow. It keeps the skin supple and moist so that it doesn't dry, contract and crack, forming deep painful fissures that tend to take longer to heal.

This routine gets me back climbing without tape on the third day. Skin may be a little sensitive, but it isn't raw or bleeding or seeping.

[Tom]

Thanks guys!

[marcusyoya]

Gaining calluses takes time. I have a hand care kit that includes: Super Glue, Razor Blades, Nail clippers, Suture Scissors, Euro Tape, Salve, 100 grit, 150 grit sand paper, nail crack/hangnail glue powder, neosporin spray.

I utilize salve before and after climbing.
Sand paper calluses to prevent them from getting too large and splitting my joint skin.
Sand paper any abrasions or flaking of the skin to prevent flappers.
Tape before a hot spot becomes a blister or flapper.
Chalk liberally
If blisters or flappers happen, sanitize and trim up smooth. Tape until healed.
If you "need" to climb, I superglue over the area, tape and go for it.

Tips are the hardest to tape or heal. Some people use antihydral. If they get too destroyed, rest day!

Cheers