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Post by Lundy on May 23, 2016 12:00:46 GMT -7
Any ideas from anyone about how to train hand-eye coordination? When I'm at my limit, and dead-pointing for either a small hold, a pocket, or a specific part of a larger hold, I pretty much NEVER hit it. It's kindof shocking and hysterical how inaccurate I am. Is anyone else as equally uncoordinated, and is there anything I can do about it? For example, I missed a two-finger pocket this morning on a pretty hard boulder problem by probably two inches. Amazing...
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Post by MarkAnderson on May 23, 2016 12:33:56 GMT -7
Campusing, and practicing dynos seem to be the best way to go. There is a mental aspect too. Now that you think you're bad at aiming for holds, you're surely over-thinking your setup. This should be a subconscious process. If your conscious mind is involved it's probably going to make matters worse. Campusing is nice (if done with momentum) because everything happens so fast, you don't have time to (consciously) think about the target. You can d practice the same way on plastic by climbing quickly into the dyno and NOT hesitating before the throw.
Another thing You might try is blind dynoing on big holds (practice with your eyes open, then try with eyes closed).
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Post by Lundy on May 23, 2016 13:43:33 GMT -7
Interesting -- I've never thought of this before, but I don't think I've ever had a hard time with the precision needed on a hard campus move (on the campus board, that is). It's just when I'm on the wall. Seems that (a) there is definitely something to the mental component, and I need to just let that go a bit, and (b) the issue might not be vertical precision as much as horizontal (which is consistent with the ridiculous miss this morning). Has anyone ever put a few ticks on their campus board and, while campusing, worked to ensure that they're not just getting the height right, but also hitting the ticks on the horizontal plane as well? I imagine this might take away from the quality of the campus training, but maybe something to do not on max moves after a campus workout?
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Post by Lundy on May 23, 2016 13:44:43 GMT -7
Sorry... should have also said the vision I have of crunching my fingers horribly into some holds while blind dynoing is totally cringe-worthy. I might wait until my skill level is a bit higher before trying that.
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Post by MarkAnderson on May 23, 2016 14:57:52 GMT -7
I've taped boxes around the top of a rung to simulate a pocket. I've also campused on pockets, which definitely requires good accuracy, but it's a lot of work (IME) to set up a campus board for pockets, so I wouldn't go to all that trouble unless you live in Lander or something. Another idea I've never tried is to create some cutouts (maybe out of wood or hard foam) that you can temporarily attach above your rungs to simulate 3D pockets. The trick would be getting them to stick to the board without permanently damaging it (which I think screws/nail/glue would do).
If you think horizontal accuracy is a big issue, make sure you're doing some sideways moves too. Not typewriters exactly, but up and to the side, where you are aiming for a precise point. |
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Post by aikibujin on May 24, 2016 6:15:35 GMT -7
My accuracy is also not great, so I've tried campusing to pockets as an exercise (and also because the gym took down their campus board for construction). I quickly realized campusing to pockets require a slight modification to my campusing technique. I need a split second pause at the apex of my upward motion in order to hit the pocket with any accuracy, this requires more focus on locking off with the hand that's not moving. This in turn require me to turn my body into the locked off arm a little more to maintain balance. Maybe it's pretty obvious to everyone, but it wasn't to me. So something to think about.
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Post by jessebruni on May 24, 2016 13:07:44 GMT -7
I've taped boxes around the top of a rung to simulate a pocket. I've also campused on pockets, which definitely requires good accuracy, but it's a lot of work (IME) to set up a campus board for pockets, so I wouldn't go to all that trouble unless you live in Lander or something. Another idea I've never tried is to create some cutouts (maybe out of wood or hard foam) that you can temporarily attach above your rungs to simulate 3D pockets. The trick would be getting them to stick to the board without permanently damaging it (which I think screws/nail/glue would do).
If you think horizontal accuracy is a big issue, make sure you're doing some sideways moves too. Not typewriters exactly, but up and to the side, where you are aiming for a precise point. Man, good idea. I bet if you made the width of the foam just slightly larger than the distance between rungs you could shove it in between the rungs and you wouldn't need glue or anything to hold it in. |
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Post by MarkAnderson on May 24, 2016 13:19:27 GMT -7
I've taped boxes around the top of a rung to simulate a pocket. I've also campused on pockets, which definitely requires good accuracy, but it's a lot of work (IME) to set up a campus board for pockets, so I wouldn't go to all that trouble unless you live in Lander or something. Another idea I've never tried is to create some cutouts (maybe out of wood or hard foam) that you can temporarily attach above your rungs to simulate 3D pockets. The trick would be getting them to stick to the board without permanently damaging it (which I think screws/nail/glue would do).
If you think horizontal accuracy is a big issue, make sure you're doing some sideways moves too. Not typewriters exactly, but up and to the side, where you are aiming for a precise point. Man, good idea. I bet if you made the width of the foam just slightly larger than the distance between rungs you could shove it in between the rungs and you wouldn't need glue or anything to hold it in. That's a great idea! Given that one of the two rungs is likely to be incut (either the top surface of the low rung, or the bottom surface of the higher rung), it should be fairly secure. You could even cut the pieces with an angle to match the rung shape. |
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